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By The Glass
Chuck Furuya






Passion breeds success

In my more than 30 years in the food and wine business the most thrilling moments have been to witness passion. The passion of a chef, of a winemaker, of a true professional.

In the past week or so, these individuals reminded me of that:

Nunzio Alioto, managing partner of Alioto's Restaurant, San Francisco: Let me just say I would not be a master sommelier today, if it were not for Nunzio and his wife, Joanne.

I met Nunzio when he opened an Alioto's here on Makaloa Street, working for him as a waiter, and later general manager.

Although he closed Alioto's, Nunzio returns often to Hawaii and remains my mentor and best friend.

Two days ago, Nunzio was selected as Sommelier of the Year by Star Wine in Philadelphia. It is an absolute thrill for me to see such a passionate, yet humble and unassuming true professional singled out from among 60 of the top sommeliers in the world, including the legendary Serge Dubs from Auberge d'Lisle (the Michelin three-star restaurant in Alsace) for this honor.

Aaron Trujillo, general manager of Vino, Kapalua: When I met Aaron 12 years ago, he had just started as a "dining room attendant" at the Manele Bay Hotel on Lanai. A week ago, this young man won Hawaii's Young Sommelier's Competition, hosted by the International Chaine des Rotisseurs organization. In May, Aaron will fly to Seattle to compete in the nationals.

Roberto Viernes, wine educator for Southern Wines & Spirits: Back in the early '90s, here was a VERY young man who, despite his age, was brazen enough to cold call me one day with a million and one questions on wine and how to learn more about it. Last Thursday, this same young man fulfilled his long-standing dream by passing the master sommelier exam, and with flying colors.

A wholehearted congratulations to all three.

'Sideways'

People have been asking me -- continually -- about the movie "Sideways."

One of the movie's pinot noir stars was a label called Whitcraft. It is the REAL deal. Whoever gave the movie execs their wine expertise hit the nail on the head with that recommendation.

Chris Whitcraft learned most of his craft from Burt Williams of Williams & Selyem fame, and the Whitcraft pinot noirs are some of California's very best -- and among my all-time favorites.

Terrific Values

GR-174: Here is an absolutely delicious, fruit-laden, wonderfully spiced, Grenache-based red wine from the Priorat wine-growing region of Spain. At roughly $11 a bottle, it is a bargain well worth seeking out.

San Giorgia Pinot Grigio: This dry, remarkably light and crisp Italian white is produced under the watchful eye of Italian winemaking legend, Franco Bernabei. The best news, the price is less than $10 a bottle. Stock the refrigerator up with this one.


This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com



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