---

Lulu’s serves Hawaii
of tourists’ dreams

FOODIES make a big deal of pointing out how far we've come since the early days of Hawaii tourism, when pineapple and coconut were exotic and enticing ingredients, and well-to-do sorts would eagerly cross the big blue Pacific to sample the strange chop suey flavors of paradise. That was during boat days, before one- and two-day shipping made those flavors available anywhere in the world.

Over the years, newfound political correctness led people to become more respectful of culture and the roots of our island cuisine, and tiki-themed tourist traps went the way of the dodo bird, in favor of steakhouses, Pacific Rim palaces and any number of mom-and-pops preparing various ethnic cuisines from recipes straight out of grandma's kitchen in the mother country.

But food fashions come and go, and wiki waki tiki restaurants seem to be on an upswing, from Tiki's Grill and Bar to the new Lulu's Waikiki Surf Club, all dressed in grass skirt splendor.

Maybe tourists are trying to tell us we've gotten too serious about our food. Save the precious $17 teensy-weensy pieces of moi for James Beard judges; bring on the Lava Flows and Shrimptini cocktails!

---

CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM Mainland visitors and as well as locals enjoy the nostalgic atmosphere overlooking Waikiki beach at Lulu's, including patrons Michelle Benson, left, Jeannie Benson, Kriste K, Megan and Josh Barner.

---

That's gotta send foodies running for cover, but tourists, they just wanna have fun and there's a lot of 'em at Lulu's, at Kapahulu and Kalakaua in the Park Shore Waikiki. There's parking at the hotel, but the lot is rather convoluted. It's just as easy to park at Honolulu Zoo and walk across, tho' I shan't be responsible for what happens if you don't feed your parking meter.

Lulu's is nicely positioned for visitors at the end of the Kalakaua strip, where it still seems more beachy than commercial. For locals it's not as much of a destination -- except for those with insomnia or those visiting the zoo -- but more of a curiosity, a temple for glimpsing Hawaii as sold beyond the sea. Speaking of which, the Bobby Darin tune is one of the retro sounds that fill the air along with typical barroom televisions, chatter and laughter. You might be sitting within two feet of your dining partner, but you'll be yelling across the table to be heard.

---

CRAIG T. KOJIMA / CKOJIMA@STARBULLETIN.COM Laura Ivy serves up some refreshments during lunch at Lulu's.

---

YOU CAN BRING back nostalgic themes, but food has to be recognizable and up to date. So the menu specializes in Americana, with a little of the 50th state thrown in, though it would be hard to explain to a tourist which is which.

At its most Midwest-oriented, you can order a half-pound Aloha burger ($8.95) painted with teriyaki sauce and topped with pineapple. (The juices should actually help the patty, as I sampled the much drier Magnum P.I. burger topped with bacon, cheddar and guacamole.)

Local style is represented by Tiger Eye Sushi ($11.95) of tempura-style nori-wrapped ahi rolled with crab, carrots and cucumber, or Black-n-Blue Ahi ($10.95), lightly seared and accompanied by a sweet lilikoi sauce. Wasabi is served on the side to prevent sensory assault of unsuspecting innocents. You won't go wrong with these appetizers.

One of the best and nearly local dishes is the oven-roasted roast pork ($13.95); just add a splash of Liquid Smoke and call it kalua already.

And when in a new place, it doesn't take much to experiment further. Hawaii, New Orleans, Mexico -- what's the difference? There are plenty of Creole accents on the menu, as well as tame crab cake po' boys ($10.95) and Tijuana fish tacos ($10.95) to try.

At its priciest, the menu also features prime rib from the grill at $19.95 to $23.95, but I never got that far. The pupu and burgers are plenty heavy and filling, not to mention infinitely more affordable to people who have already shelled out a thousand for air fare and hotel rooms.

You won't help your diet with desserts like Brownie Overload ($5.25) or colossal banana split ($6.25), which is OK for those truly trying to escape real-world concerns. The rest of us might settle on a root beer float ($5.25). Oh, happy days!

---

Lulu's Waikiki Surf Club Parkshore Waikiki, 2586 Kalakaua Ave. at the corner of Kapahulu / 926-5222 Food Service Ambience Value Hours: Breakfast from 2 to 11 a.m.; lunch and dinner form 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Cost: About $20 for two for lunch; $30 to $45 for two for dinner without drinks