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Luzon leaves
vivid memory

It was nearly a year ago when I first encountered these wines in Spain. I vividly recall that day, waking up surrounded by the vineyards of Finca Luzon in town of Jumilla.

Castillo de Luzon 2000 ($12.99) is a mourvedre-based blend from the Jumilla region. The vineyard is littered with gravel and rocks, akin to vineyards in the Chateaunuf du Pape region of France. The cool, continental climate of the Jumilla region (just 60 miles from the Mediterranean Sea), scant rainfall and unique soils make it one of the most exciting regions in Spain. Luzon is produced in a Crianza style, in which wines are aged a maximum of six months each in barrel and bottle.

One of the tastiest wines I've had recently, it is brilliant ruby in color with a perfume of black cherry, cedar, rosemary, mint and sweet spices. Rich, bright and flowing on the palate, its lengthy flavors leave you with that great lip-smacking quality.

Also just in are two outstanding values from the region of Vino de la Tierre de Castilla AOC. The Eguren brothers who produced the stellar Termes (Wine Spectators' No. 3 wine of 2004) also produce the value-conscious Protocolo line.

Protocolo Rosé 2003 ($7.79) is sourced from hillside-planted grapes blended with the native tempranillo and bobal grapes. A refreshing wine for our climate, it is scented with aromas of tart cherry, anise, watermelon and spice. The flavors flow onto the palate with crisp acidity, forward fruit and a dry lingering finish. It's a great cocktail wine and will pair well with fish as well as white meats (chicken, turkey).

The second wine is Protocolo Blanco 2003 ($7.79), a blend of two local grape varieties called airen (90 percent) and macabeo (10 percent). The aromas are floral, with banana, apple, peach and spice. Similar in style to dry riesling, though cleaner with a crisp minerality, it works well with light salads, white fish and shellfish.

One of the more challenging yet rewarding parts of my job is finding great wines at great prices. The wines of Spain are truly amazing and among the great values of the wine world.

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