COURTESY DENNIS CALLAN A guide takes a group of visitors on a tour of the Citadel, a highlight of the Upper Town. The huge, star-shaped fortress was built by the British in the 1920s.

Those braving the cold can
see the world’s largest
winter fest

MIDWINTER in Quebec City is only for the brave -- it is bone cold, with temperatures between 0 and 18 degrees, but a springtime trip to this great destination allows travelers to enjoy its fascinating history and French atmosphere at attractive prices.

Part I: Quebec's Lower Town » To see the first part of the series, on the Lower Town, please visit starbulletin.com/2004/12/26/travel/story1.html.

Spring and fall are comfortably cool, but travelers tough enough to brave frostbite would be thrilled by the world's largest winter festival, Carnaval de Quebec, held annually the first half of February. Others might favor the equally busy and much warmer Summer Festival, filled with cultural events, held the second week of July.

Quebec was founded in 1608 by French explorer Samuel de Champlain. It was Canada's premier city for more than two centuries, starting as capital of New France, which stretched to the Rockies and down to the Gulf of Mexico; and later becoming Canada's capital under the British. Quebec was Canada's early trading center because of its location where the St. Lawrence River narrowed, preventing further boat traffic inland and making this the main port of entry to all of Canada.

Quebec passed back and forth between French and British control until the decisive battle of 1759 when the British defeated the French. By 1763, Britain took control of Canada until the country achieved independence in 1931.

Much of Quebec's history is still visible in its many old buildings , especially the fortified wall around the Upper Town that defines the character of this place and distinguishes Quebec as the only walled city in North America. After its French and English periods, Canada became an independent nation with its own identity, enjoying one of the world's highest standards of living -- yet the Queen of England is still the symbolic head of state.

The nation's capital is now Ottawa, and many economic activities have shifted to Montreal and Toronto, thanks partly to modern shipping and improved river navigation that enabled oceangoing traffic to bypass Quebec. These shifts helped to preserve the city's historic character and to retain a peaceful atmosphere, yet Quebec continues as capital of the province and major modern city with myriad attractions for the visitor.

The 150 years of French dominance left its influence, especially in the language: Six of the province's 7 million residents speak French as their first language, including 98 percent of the city's 650,000 population. Most also speak English, especially the younger generation and those employed in the tourist industry, making it easy for American visitors to get by. This makes visits feel like a weekend in Europe, complete with cobbled pedestrian lanes, street markets, Parisian-style buildings and gourmet restaurants, without the effort or expense of traveling across the Atlantic.

COURTESY DENNIS CALLAN A group of tourists is led on a five-minute walk to the Citadel. Military buffs will enjoy the one-hour tour and the museum. The Citadel still protects the city as an active army post.

IN DECEMBER we visited the Lower Town, so today's focus is on the Upper Town, the area enclosed by the fortified walls. This itinerary is quite easy because the area inside the wall is fairly level and less than a mile long and a half-mile wide.

Main Square: The heart of Upper Town is Place des Armes in front of the landmark hotel Chateau Frontenac. The Chateau Frontenac sometimes appears as a symbol of Canada with its distinctive outline rising like an old French castle. Built on the site of Champlain's original fortress and later the British governor's house, the hotel is still the focal point of Quebec City.

Seasonal pricing variations can yield surprisingly affordable rates at this luxury property, built in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railroad to encourage cross-country travel by train. Even if you're not staying here, consider dropping in for a meal or two to enjoy the excellent services.

The Old Town designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985 is symbolized by the modern, spherical statue in Place des Armes. Grand buildings and museums on or near the Place include the Musee du Fort, the Old Courthouse, Grevin Wax Museum, Quebec Experience 3D Spectacle, Maillou House and the Old Post Office. The Monument of Faith in the square's center commemorates the first missionaries' arrival in 1615. Save these great attractions for later, after your orientation walk.

The river side of Place des Armes leads to the broad pedestrian promenade of Dufferin Terrace, extending a half-mile along the top edge of the cliff separating Upper and Lower Towns. This terrace is a great place to enjoy the views, do some people-watching and be entertained by sidewalk performers. Quebec's founder, Champlain, has a place of honor on a tall pedestal at the terrace edge. The west end of this boardwalk becomes the narrower Promenade des Gouverneurs, which continues further along the cliff.

On the other side of the Chateau Frontenac is the Governor's Garden, originally laid out during the 17th century in the British style, as a square garden filled with trees. The park has some of Quebec's oldest homes and a few small hotels surrounding it, a war memorial obelisk in the center.

Walls and forts: A five-minute uphill stroll brings you to the Citadel, a massive, star-shaped fortress originally conceived during the 17th century but not built until the 1820s by the British in a classic double-wall military style. Fortunately, it was never used in battle, but the Citadel is still protecting the city as an active army post, making it one of the world's oldest occupied military forts. Military buffs will enjoy a one-hour guided tour and the museum inside, where you're briefed on Quebec's turbulent history.

During the American Revolution, our rebel army occupied Montreal for a year and, led by Benedict Arnold, attacked Quebec in 1775. If that assault had been successful, Canada might have become part of the United States. To discourage further invasion from America or rebellion by the French residents of Quebec, the walls were strengthened by the British during the early 19th century, and the Citadel was built.

From the Citadel there is a stunning view of town and St. Lawrence River. Beyond the Citadel is an open field called the Plains of Abraham. It was here that the British finally defeated the French in 1759.

A small collection of provincial art is on display at the Musee du Quebec on the opposite side of the Plains of Abraham.

Outside the wall: From the Citadel, stroll downhill outside the wall two blocks toward the Parliament Building (AssemblŽe Nationale), passing the tall Sacrifice Cross in memory of Canadian soldiers killed in past wars. Built in the French Second-Empire style during the 1880s, the AssemblŽe Nationale houses Quebec's 125-member elected legislature. The building's facade is decorated with 22 bronze statues of important historical figures. The place of honor in front belongs to an Algonquin Indian family, while the tall tower is dedicated to Cartier, Quebec's first settler.

You don't need to see more of the newer side of town, but if you want to take a look, the nicest part extends from here along the Grand Allee. Party animals will flock to the many bars along this strip for late-night dancing.

COURTESY DENNIS CALLAN Travelers enter and exit the Basilica-Cathedral of Notre-Dame, the city's most famous church. It has a rich interior, designed in French Baroque style.

Rue St. Louis: Walk back into the Old Town through the St. Louis Gate, an impressive portal through the wall built during the 1870s in a chateau style that has influenced Quebec's subsequent architecture. Inside the gate you will find the Fortifications of Quebec National Historic Site, offering entry to the restored Powder Magazine, and walking tours with spectacular panoramic views across the city.

Pass through the gate to Rue St. Louis, one of Upper Town's main streets, home to some of the best shops, restaurants and historic sites. La Caravelle is one of the better French restaurants along this stretch, or you might try the excellent Italian food at Parmesan. The oldest house in the city, from 1675, holds Aux Anciens Canadiens, serving excellent French fare at reasonable prices. Even if you are not eating here, ask to take a look around to soak in the aromas and early decor. This quick peek is a good strategy to employ at any restaurant: You can get a feeling for the ambience, glance at the menu, notice the service and learn about any specials being served. Most restaurants are happy to let you walk around.

Halfway down Rue St. Louis, look for the small Parloir lane, leading to Rue Donnacona and the tree-shaded campus of Ursulines Monastery, the oldest girls school in North America, founded in 1639 (shortly after Harvard). Its monastery, one of Quebec's only surviving 17th-century buildings, houses about 60 Ursuline nuns.

Turn on Rue des Jardins to visit the Holy Trinity Anglican Cathedral, constructed from 1804 as the first British church in Canada. It was built in the Pa-ladian style based on St. Martin in the Fields Church in London, with impressive dimensions, at 30 yards long, 20 yards wide and a steeple 50 yards high.

One block further is the City Hall, or Hotel de Ville, looking like a 19th-century Parisian chateau, complete with Mansard roof and Romanesque details. Guided tours are available from the main entrance lobby.

Just across from City Hall, on Plaza des Jardins, is the only high-rise inside Old Town, the 17-story Price Building, built during the 1920s in an Art Deco style reminiscent of the Empire State Building. The top floors are the official residence of Quebec's premier, but the ground-floor lobby is open to the public.

Nearly all of Quebec's other modern buildings are outside the walls, while most buildings in the Old Town date to the early 19th century, Quebec's Golden Age, when a major shipping industry developed. During the second half of the 19th century, Quebec's economy stagnated, resulting in preservation by default.

The Basilica-Cathedral of Notre-Dame, facing City Hall across a small square, is the most important church in town. This oldest cathedral north of Mexico, first built in 1647, has a rich interior designed in the French Baroque style, glistening with gold. Destroyed in the Conquest of 1759, it was rebuilt shortly afterward, then destroyed by fire in 1922 and rebuilt again. In a back room you will see a large map and displays that summarize the Quebec's history. In the summer you can enjoy the sound and light show presented daily.

Along Rue Buade behind the basilica is a monument to Quebec's first bishop, Monsignor de Laval, and on Rue Port-Dauphin, the Archbishop's Palace, a massive neoclassical stone pile built in 1847. Have a look at the small Montmorency Park across the street, with its grand, cannon-lined esplanade offering a fine view of the Lower Town.

Those interested in social history of French-speaking people in North America would enjoy a visit to Canada's oldest museum, the Musee de l'Amerique Francaise, next to the Notre-Dame Basilica. You might be surprised to learn that most of this continent's 19 million people of French origin live in the United States, primarily in New England and Louisiana. An effective use of movies, everyday objects, high-tech displays and bold graphics make this an entertaining journey through the turbulent and sometimes tragic history of French America.

Quebec Seminary is a sprawling complex covering several blocks in this Latin Quarter neighborhood, which had been the main university district. Most academic departments have moved outside the city, leaving the seminary as a monastic structure with several chapels and offices, open by special guided tours.

Before finding your way to Rue St. Jean, consider visiting some of the museums around the Place des Armes mentioned earlier; most close by 6 p.m.

Rue St. Jean: Saving the best for last, this is the liveliest of all streets in the Upper Town, covering four blocks lined with great shops and restaurants. This street, considered by many to be the heart of town, is busy day and night.

Another excellent military museum, Artillery Park, is located at the end of Rue St. Jean in original buildings dating to 1720. Operated by the national government, the museum provides a glimpse into officers' quarters and soldiers' barracks with period furnishings and a working kitchen where you can enjoy tea. The Arsenal Building is now a visitor center that includes an 1808 scale model of Quebec.

Rue St. Jean passes through a majestic gate in the wall to the always busy Place d'Youville in the new side of town, surrounded by more restaurants and modern buildings. During winter the public ice rink fills with skaters.

Just outside the St. Jean Gate are several modern hotels, including the 26-floor Loews le Concorde, which has a panoramic elevator and revolving restaurant offering spectacular views across the Old Town. There is also a commercial viewing deck 725 feet high, at l'Observatoire de la Capitale, at 1037 de La Chevrotiere. From these high perches, you can view the entire city and reflect on your trip.