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Waterfall awaits
adventurers
on Kauai

WE'RE gliding in kayaks along Kalihiwai Stream, ducking beneath low-hanging branches and maneuvering around clusters of waterworn stones. Trees tower above both banks of the tranquil waterway, stoic and still like pious monks at morning prayers. Every now and then, a few rays of sunlight burst through the thick canopy, but, for the most part, we're shielded by an enormous green parasol.

Hidden in the verdant foliage, birds warble happily as a gentle breeze coaxes dew-kissed leaves to dance to their song. Our bodies relax, our minds clear, as we gently dip our paddles into the cool water. One paddle, two paddle. One paddle, two paddle. With every rhythmic stroke, we're leaving the cares of everyday life further and further behind.

Princeville Ranch Adventures' Jungle Waterfall Kayak Adventure is an enthralling four-hour expedition into a pristine sector of Kauai's 2,500-acre Princeville Ranch, which has been leased and operated by the kamaaina Carswell family for 27 years.

"Many of our guests live in cities, and they're amazed by the natural beauty they see on this tour," says Denise Carswell, who owns Princeville Ranch Adventures with her husband, David. "They come back inspired and excited, saying, 'I can't believe how beautiful it is out there!' It's so pretty and lush, it feels like you're in the Amazon."

The Jungle Waterfall Kayak Adventure includes 1 1/2 miles of hiking interspersed with 1/2 mile of kayaking. Carswell, who oversees daily operations for Princeville Ranch Adventures, has made the trip dozens of times herself.

"The tour goes across private land that's not open to the public, meaning no other companies run trips on the same property," she says. "It's just our guide and guests, and they don't see another soul when they're there."

Indeed, civilization seems miles, not minutes, away. At every bend along the stream, we expect Indiana Jones to come bounding out of the bushes.

The hiking portions of the journey are just as rejuvenating. In wide open pastures, we stroll a foot away from cows lounging with their newborn calves. Horses graze in the distance. Cattle egrets, doves and mynahs flit about; it takes a sharper eye to spot the more elusive Pacific golden plover, meadowlark and Japanese white eye.

Our guide, Derek Green, is a 31-year-old drama instructor with a passion for the great outdoors. Describing nature as "the most magnificent stage," he points out at least a dozen plants and trees -- koa, ti, inkberry, hilahila, three varieties of guava and the kukui, Hawaii's state tree -- with the authority of a botanist.

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COURTESY PRINCEVILLE RANCH ADVENTURES A picturesque lunch spot during a kayak tour includes rubber tubes and a 15-foot twin waterfall, which has been dubbed Ka Wai O Kawika (David's water). Princeville Ranch Adventures co-owner David Carswell discovered it when he was looking for a lost cow.

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Even longtime kamaaina find there's a lot to learn. We discover that:

» Flowers of the hau tree change color as the day progresses, from yellow to dull orange to red.

» Centuries ago, the bitter fruit of the hala tree was consumed in times of famine, and the bulbs at the end of its aerial roots were concocted into a pain reliever as potent as morphine.

» Uluhe ferns have a tendency to grow atop each other, posing a threat to hikers who can't tell where solid ground lies beneath them.

The trails meander over uneven terrain, but instead of the heavy hiking boots that you'd normally choose for an activity like this, we're wearing light, flexible rubber tabis, which are actually Japanese fishermen's shoes.

"They're used for walking on reefs and rocky coastlines," Carswell explains. "Many locals in Hawaii use them for hiking because it feels like you're barefoot, yet if you step on a small stump, for example, it doesn't hurt. The tabis also have a great grip on rocks, and they're perfect for swimming."

WE MAKE FIVE stream crossings before reaching our picturesque lunch spot, where a covered shelter, picnic table, hammock, rubber tubes and 15-foot twin waterfall await. Although the waterfall doesn't have an official name, it's been dubbed Ka Wai O Kawika (David's water) because he discovered it four years ago when he was riding on horseback along the valley rim, looking for a lost cow.

"He hiked back to the waterfall with our dog on another day and thought it would be a wonderful place to take a kayak tour," says Carswell. "He was right; a comment we often hear from local residents is, 'I've lived on Kauai my whole life and never knew scenery like this existed on the island!' "

It took six months for the Carswells to get everything in place for the Jungle Waterfall Kayak Adventure. "There was a section of the stream where hau bushes were hindering access," Carswell recalls. "We got really wet and muddy pulling our kayaks over the branches so we could get going again, and we kept saying to each other, 'What are we doing?'"

But they persevered. David did most of the trailblazing himself, often hiking in the forest for hours to determine the best route. With the help of a few workers, he built the trails, kayak landing sites, lunch shelter, and sturdy rope railings to facilitate crossings of the stream and steep sections.

The result is what Carswell calls "a great family experience. You have to be in good physical condition to do this tour, but it's not strenuous. The stream crossings provide some thrills, but for the most part this is a very peaceful, very relaxing trip that pretty much anyone can do."

That said, expect the unexpected, as you always should when you're out in the wild. Once, Carswell recalls, kayakers on the tour were startled by a pig that jumped into the stream right behind them with two hunting dogs in hot pursuit. The animals swiftly swam upstream past the kayakers, who tried in vain to catch up with them.

"As you might imagine," says Carswell, "the group came back totally exhilarated, with a story they'll never forget!"

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If you go ...

What: Jungle Waterfall Kayak Adventure

Place: Meet at Princeville Ranch Adventures' headquarters, just past Mile Marker 27 on Highway 56 in Princeville

Offered: 8 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily

Cost: $94 per person, including a picnic lunch of sandwiches, cookies, fruit and lemonade. Kamaaina receive a 20 percent discount. Participants must be at least 5 years old.

Notes: Wear light, comfortable clothing, including a swimsuit. Bring a towel, sunscreen, hat, sunglasses and rain gear. The company provides kayaks, use of backpacks, water in souvenir water bottles and tabis (water shoes) for the duration of the tour.

Call: 808-826-7669 on Kauai or toll free 888-955-7669 from the other islands

E-mail: info@adventureskauai.com

Web site: www.adventureskauai.com

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