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Hijiki

This sea vegetable resembles Chinese black tea and is served as a side dish to many Japanese entrées. It is a popular ingredient in home-style dishes, but has also gained in popularity with vegetarians because of its high protein and mineral content.

The basics: Hijiki is harvested from a particular reddish-brown seaweed. Both the stem and leaf bud sections are harvested, then immediately steamed and dried. The stem variety is called nagahijiki and the leaf variety mehijiki.

In its dried form hijiki turns dark black and takes on a glossy sheen. It has a very mild seaweed flavor, almost nutty, with a hint of sweetness. Hijiki is a good source of calcium, iron and dietary fiber, and is said to be a digestive aid that may help lower blood cholesterol.

Selecting: Fresh hijiki is virtually unavailable outside of Japan. But dried hijiki is widely available, packed in plastic bags. Hijiki can be mistaken for dried wakame (another form of sea vegetable), but is generally characterized by its small grain-like form.

Storing: Dried hijiki will keep a long time in a dry, cool area. It will also keep frozen for several years.

Use: Dried hijiki needs to be reconstituted. Soak in water about 15 minutes. The hijiki will seem to double in size and amount. Be careful not to soak too long, however.

Hijiki is traditionally made into a dish with carrots and aburage (fried tofu) and seasoned with a sweet soy-sauce broth.

It may also be steamed with rice or stir-fried with shiitake mushrooms and other vegetables, or added to soups and salads. Hijiki needs only a quick cooking, otherwise it can turn mushy.

Where to buy: Dried hijiki is available at Asian markets and the Asian sections of most supermarkets, next to other dried seaweed. Health food stores are also a good source. Prices range from $1.89 to $3 for 1- to 5-ounce packages.