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Ponzu

I tried to find you a definitive list of ingredients for the traditional Japanese dipping sauce, ponzu. But depending upon who is stirring up the sauce, it might contain soy sauce, lime/lemon/orange juice, rice vinegar, bonito flakes, mirin, sugar, garlic, peppers, ginger, tamari, konbu, water, cornstarch, fish sauce, daikon ... or maybe not!

So let's just call this ingredient versatile, and enjoy its adaptability in recipes.

Basics: The version I serve with sashimi, tempura and dim sum is fairly standard. I blend shoyu, rice vinegar and fresh lemon juice in a 3-1-1 ratio. If there's ginger on hand, I grate in a little, sometimes adding sriracha or sugar to taste.

I also keep a bottle of prepared ponzu in my refrigerator for when I'm feeling lazy.

Selecting: In Japan, Ajipon is the gold standard of prepared ponzus -- its recipe was formulated in the late '60s. In Hawaii you're more likely to find Kikkoman ponzu shelved with the brand's other soy-sauce products (about $2.39 for 10 ounces).

Chef Ming Tsai makes his own ponzu with lemongrass and grapeseed oil (available at www.ming.com). Myron Becker's sauce contains sesame oil, another savory ponzu option.

Uses: The pon in ponzu basically means citrus, and the zu, vinaigrette. A little oil whisked in makes a delicious dressing for cold noodle dishes, green salads or cooked greens.

Traditionally, ponzu flavors beef tataki and the many communal one-pot nabe dishes (such as chirinabe).

Among nontraditional uses, Ming Tsai deglazes his pan with ponzu after sauteeing leeks, and several Hawaii chefs serve chicken or fish with rich ponzu-butter sauces.

As a dipping sauce for seafood, ponzu presents a healthful alternative to cocktail sauces, drawn butter, and tartar sauces. Ponzu Chili Calamari, Sara Moulton's Napa Cabbage-Wrapped Monkfish with Ponzu, and Shiro in Pasadena's Catfish with Ponzu and Cilantro pair ponzu with fish to great advantage.

Storing: Refrigerate commercial ponzus after opening; homemade sauces keep well for 3 to 4 months when refrigerated.

Ponzu has been called "a per fect marriage of the paddy, the sea and the orchard." I'm hoping that this salty-sweet-tart sauce will add zest to your happy New Year's celebrations!