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Rum

STAR-BULLETIN / 2003

I've never associated rum with Mai Tais or tropical climes. My rum memories are of winters in Opportunity, Wash., and of the rum-butter Lifesavers that appeared in my stocking one Christmas, only to be confiscated by a grandmother who suspected that they contained "spirits."

Adult memories replaced sugarplums with rum-ball candies, rum-drenched Christmas cakes and babas, and once, an intoxicating potted-fruit treat called Rumtopf. We drank homemade eggnogs, warded off winter sniffles with Hot Buttered Rums and toasted with cinnamon-fragrant Wassail.

Rum originated in the Caribbean, but for me, its aroma summons memories of icy winters, not of icy, exotic tropical drinks.

Basics: Rum has played a colorful, though not always a commendable, part in America's history. Because it is distilled from sugarcane, it also has a long history in Hawaii.

King Kamehameha I reportedly had a great fondness for rum, though it's doubtful that he used it for baking Rum Babas.

My rum-butter Lifesavers contained no spirits, but real rum must contain at least 30 percent alcohol. Even when simmered, baked or flambéed, traces of alcohol remain, so if you've flavored a dish with rum, warn those who cannot tolerate alcohol. Non-alcoholic rum extracts can be substituted for small amounts of rum.

Selecting: As with wine, cook with what you would drink. Doorleys, Hana Bay, Trader Vic's and Bacardi brands are good choices, and the Bacardi company offers free recipe books (the Bacardi Rum Cake is a holiday classic).

Dark or light rums are interchangeable in most recipes, but choose dark-brown ones for a stronger flavor.

Uses: Recipes abound for unbaked rum-ball candies and for desserts such as rum cheesecakes, bread puddings, chocolate mousses and flambéed fruits. Try making eggnogs and ancient Wassail drinks (with rum, warmed cider, cranberry juice, cinnamon sticks and clove-studded oranges) from not-so-ancient online recipes. Peggy Trowbridge's Web site (homecooking.about.com) brims with useful rum information and excellent recipes.

Beyond desserts and drinks, chef Emeril Legasse's Rum Mashed Sweet Potatoes "kick it up a notch," as does James Beard's Crab Pilaf. Rum-lime-juice-flavored seafood dishes, Turkey Tropicale and Rum-Baked Chicken also demonstrate rum's cooking versatility.

Where to buy: In supermarket liquor sections or in liquor stores. Look for sales during the holidays and enjoy this spirited cooking ingredient.