Phyllo

But unless you're a culinary martyr, don't try making phyllo from scratch. Few cooks today, including my Greek friends and the professional chefs I admire, have the time and patience for this art.

I asked fellow writer Helen Chapin, whose spanakopita and baklava are divine, whether she or her Greek aunties made their own phyllo. She remembered the Geracimos ladies rolling out the dough, then pulling it into rice-paper-thin sheets that draped over large tables.

"And you do this?" I asked. "Oh, heavens no! I buy the frozen, ready-made kind."

Basics: The dough that Helen transforms into Greek delicacies is made by the world's No. 1 phyllo producer, Athens Foods (they use an alternate spelling, fillo, also pronounced FEE-low). Inside their 16-ounce boxes are rolls of 28 pastry sheets, each one 12-by-17 inches, and clear instructions for use.

Phyllo contains no fat or cholesterol, making it a good alternative to high-fat puff pastry. Traditional recipes call for brushing each layer with melted butter, however, so phyllo treats may not fit into your diet. To cut the fat, try buttering every second or third layer only, or substituting a butter-flavored cooking spray to lower that calorie/fat count.

Storing: Keep frozen, then thaw it in your refrigerator, wrapping unused dough tightly before refreezing. Cover thawed layers on your counter with plastic wrap and a damp towel to keep them from drying out and flying away.

Uses: The Athens company carries both traditional recipes and intriguing new ones online at www.athens.com. Recipes include the triangular Greek appetizers called spanakopita, with their spinach and feta cheese filling; and baklava, a decadent, honey-drenched dessert you might bake for friends at Christmas. Phyllo makes strudel-making simple, too.

Phyllo is fun. It can be folded, twisted, and pressed into many shapes, including tart crusts. Chefs at Marbella prepare Kunafa, a dessert made of shredded phyllo, and Gaylord's at Kilohana serves an easy-to-make Baked Brie in Filo appetizer (Karen Bacon's "Tasting Paradise" includes that recipe.)

Where to find: In your grocer's frozen-foods case. (Safeway folks tell me they'll have Athens' newest product, Mini Fillo Shells, available for holiday baking as well.)