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Autumn bounty includes
persimmons from Maui

Clark and Jackie Hashimoto are among a half-dozen persimmon growers on Maui. This is their season.

The persimmon is the ultimate fall fruit. Its glossy orange glow fits into the season's color palette and its sweet, light crispness is an ideal foil for the indulgences of the season.

The Hashimoto Persimmon Farm in Kula is straddling two varieties this week: The maru, which is just ending its run, and the fuyu, which is just beginning. Both can be found at the Saturday Farmer's Market at Kapiolani Community College this weekend, and at Made in Hawaii Foods in Pearl City.

The less familiar maru persimmon is similar in shape to the fuyu -- sort of like a mini-pumpkin -- but it is a more pale yellow-orange, sometimes even light green. Small brown spots in the flesh are pockets of natural sugar that should not be mistaken for age spots or bruises.

Clark Hashimoto says the maru must be cured to cut its astringency. "We used to cure it with gin or whiskey," he says. A bit of liquor was dropped into the crown of the fruit and it was stored airtight for about a week.

Nowadays, the fruit is treated to a 24-hour dry-ice bath to remove the bitterness from the skin.

Besides fresh fruit, Hashimoto Farm also sells persimmon jam, cookies and dried fruit, making it the perfect place to go in search of an answer to Eleanor Nedjar's request for recipes for fuyu persimmons. Nedjar particularly wanted a jam recipe.

Jackie Hashimoto was reluctant to give out the recipe for the jam that she sells, but she did locate one that she says should be similar and that follows the techniques that she uses. It comes from the Cooperative Extension Service in Sacramento, Calif., a persimmon-rich part of the country.

She also offered a recipe for a persimmon coffee cake that she says is a favorite of her family.

Combine persimmon and water in a large kettle. Stir in pectin and lemon juice. Bring mixture to a full rolling boil and boil about 30 seconds. Add sugar and bring to a rolling boil again for exactly 4 minutes, stirring constantly.

Remove from heat and pour into sterilized jars. Makes about 6 jars.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour 9-by-3-inch spring-form pan.

To make streusel: Combine flour, sugar and cinnamon. Cut in butter until mixture resembles course crumbs. Stir in nuts. Set aside.

Combine persimmon pulp with 1 tablespoon flour and brown sugar; set aside.

In a separate bowl, stir together remaining 2 cups flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside.

Beat butter on medium to high speed 30 seconds. Beat in sugar and vanilla. Add eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition. Add flour mixture and sour cream alternately, beating just until combined after each addition.

Spread half the batter into prepared pan. Spoon persimmon mixture into center of pan. Carefully spoon remaining batter in small mounds to cover persimmon mixture. Top with streusel.

Bake 1 hour, or until toothpick inserted near center comes out clean. (Filling will sink somewhat as cake bakes.)

Cool in pan on wire rack 10 minutes. Loosen and remove sides of pan. Cool completely on rack. Serves 12.

Note: To make persimmon pulp, cut fruit into small pieces and purŽe in blender. The fruit does not need to be peeled, but any bruises or black spots should be cut out. Fruit may also be pressed through a sieve or food mill.

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Asterisk (*) after nutritional analyses in the Body & Soul section indicates calculations by Joannie Dobbs of Exploring New Concepts, a nutritional consulting firm.