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By The Glass Roberto Viernes |
Clendenen pours
world-class,
affordable wine
I love the analogy of the tomato salad: To make a great salad requires great tomatoes, no matter how good the chef. And it takes a great chef, no matter how good the tomatoes. The two together create something so special that it will be imprinted on your mind and palate -- magic.
This month I was again reminded of the magic that can come from the combination of great things, in this case a great winemaker working with great grapes grown in great vineyards.
The winemaker is the prolific Jim Clendenen of Santa Barbara, who makes Au Bon Climat, Ici La Bas and Il Podere Dell Olivos wines. He was named Winemaker of the Year in 1992 by the Los Angeles Times, in 2001 by Food & Wine magazine and last year by the German Wine Press, chosen over such luminaries as Didier Dagueneau and Peter Sisseck.
But the real proof is in the bottle. Clendenen makes fun wines from Italian varietals under his Il Podere Dell Olivos label. His Ici La Bas label is for wine from grapes not grown on the Central Coast. Au Bon Climat is his unique line of wines from the great vineyard sites of the Central Coast.
Clendenen romances the many varietals from around the world, such as barbera and pinot grigio, but I think chardonnay and pinot noir are his true passion.
What sets his wines apart? First, elegance. His wines are never oaky, alcoholic or over the top. Intensity of flavor is next, something only gained from conscientious farming and low yields. And third is value, infrequently associated with great wines. When was the last time you had a wine that retailed for about $20 that was really world class? Here are a few:
The 2001 Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay ($22) comes from one of the oldest and arguably finest vineyards on the Central Coast. This wine reminds me of wonderfully ripe apples, pears, lime blossom, a hint of earth for complexity and just enough vanilla to frame the superbly elegant and intense fruit. In a blind tasting, many mistake this for a great white burgundy.
Another exceptional chardonnay is the 2000 Au Bon Climat Alban Vineyard ($22). This comes from John Alban's vineyard in Edna Valley, with its harvest of less than a ton per acre (tiny)! This wine is more opulent, showing notes of poached pears, creme caramel and overripe nectarines, with a touch more body than the Sanford and Benedict version.
Pair the first wine with a classic white fish and simple citrus-butter sauce or even a plain steamed lobster with drawn butter. The second could go with bˇarnaise or hollandaise sauces over pork chops or seared chicken breast.
Clendenen's pinots are some of my favorites. His newest project is the 2002 Au Bon Climat Le Bon Climat ($22), from his own vineyard in Santa Ynez, grown organically. It has a bright character of cherry and raspberry, a sweet smell of herbs, with just a touch of spice -- just super smooth.
For more richness try the 2001 Au Bon Climat Talley Vineyard ($43). The Talley Vineyard, in the Arroyo Grande Valley, offers an exposure and microclimate unlike any other on this coast. This wine is even richer, with overripe berry and sweet cardamom notes, and a plush but still elegant finish. I drink it with duck, duck and more duck. The Talley can even go with some lamb loins and braised beef.
California wines that are heavy, alcoholic and oaky are almost a dime a dozen. These wines make their magic through a worldly elegance and finesse.