Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga
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The basics: Heirloom tomatoes are tastier, more flavorful and more tender than your average supermarket tomato because they have not been cultivated by agribusiness to be attractive, disease-free and sturdy.
Heirlooms look like those you would pick from your backyard -- odd sizes, misshapen and of varying hues. They may not be symmetrically uniform, but their flavor is unmatched by any supermarket staple.
Heirlooms are divided into three categories -- commercial heirlooms introduced before the 1940s, family heirlooms with seeds passed down for generations, and created heirlooms that have been crossed with other heirlooms or hybrids.
They come in various shapes and colors, ranging from globe to oblong and purple to mottled hues of red and green. They have fun names such as green zebra, pink accordion, English rose, Tigerella and Cherokee purple. New varieties are discovered every year.
Selecting: Heirlooms are much more fragile than the ordinary supermarket tomato. Don't be turned off, however, by the odd shapes and uneven coloring. In this case, you can't judge the book by its cover. Not all heirlooms are organic, either.
Watch out for bruising or soft spots, but generally, heirlooms will give more to the touch because they are vine-ripened and ready to eat at purchase.
Storing: Heirloom tomatoes should be consumed immediately after purchase. Don't store them in the refrigerator; leave them on the counter for just a few days. Heirlooms will not keep as long as the thick-skinned supermarket variety.
Use: Heirlooms are best eaten as is. Once you've tasted a salad of heirloom tomatoes it will be hard to go back to the bland commercial stuff.
Sliced heirlooms make a great appetizer with some cheese and a very light sprinkling of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and fresh basil. A fresh tomato salsa is also a perfect way to enjoy the flavor.
Where to buy: Heirlooms can be found sporadically year-round in supermarkets, farmer's markets and specialty food stores. Two Hawaii farms, Hauula Tomatoes and Big Wave Tomatoes, are among those supplying local markets, although their heirlooms can be hard to find. Try the Saturday Farmer's Market at Kapiolani Community College. Prices are a bit expensive, but well worth it, at $3 to $5 a pound.
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
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