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By The Glass Chuck Furuya |
Right wine makes
good dinner great
Pairing wines with foods is among the most fascinating aspects of the dining experience. Over the years I've learned there are no definitive "answers" to pairing questions. It is a continual learning process, but always fun and thought-provoking.
These are highlights of a very special dinner that I helped serve. I hope they provide some insight for you, as they did for me.
Aperitif
Prosecco, Ruggeri "Gold Label": This minerally, effortlessly light, crisp Italian bubbly is, for me, the quintessential way to start an evening. It is not only deliciously refreshing, but also gets the digestive juices going. Make sure you serve it well-chilled, and in a clean glass with no soap residue.
First course
Hamachi and Roasted Shiitake Poke: Here was a pure, very flavorful yet light dish (and Atkins-friendly), which was remarkably wine-friendly. Chef DK Kodama used a 3-year-old soy sauce and truffle oil to smooth out any potential piquant Asian edges. You could easily make a poke along these lines at home, with virtually any fresh fish and a wonderful, quality olive (or peanut) oil.2000 Riesling Kabinett Medium-dry, Toni Jost ($12): This medium-dry, very tasty, amazingly light, minerally, citrus-edged riesling from Germany would be terrific with many styles of fresh seafood poke.
Next course
Moi "En Papillote": This is one of chef Hiroshi Fukui's signature dishes, which you could duplicate at home. Place a fillet of fresh fish (in this case moi, but hapuupuu would work well, too) in foil or parchment paper, season with salt and pepper, add chili pepper water, a little white wine (or sake or mirin), a pinch of konbu and diced tomatoes. Drizzle with truffle oil.2003 Insolia, Cusumano ($11): Here is a dry, fresh and fruity "country"-styled white wine from Sicily. It's fruit-driven and crisp, with a refreshing acidity ideal for such simply prepared, delicate seafood dishes.
Entrée
Osso Bucco: One of Italy's most acclaimed culinary specialties. At home, you don't have to use veal. Shortribs or oxtails could easily be substituted. A quick, easy version would be to dust the meat with seasoning and flour and brown. Set aside meat, then use the same pan to sautŽ some diced carrots, celery, onions and garlic. Add wine and reduce, then add beef, veal or chicken) stock. You can use tomatoes if you want. Return meat to the pan, then cover and braise in the oven until tender.2001 Las Rocas ($11): Here is a ripe, deeply flavored, slightly rustic but well-balanced old-vine grenache from Spain. Its rustic edge works well with the heartiness and deep flavors of this slow-cooked dish. Just make sure you chill the wine 10 minutes or so before serving.
Dessert
Panna Cotta with Mango Sauce: A simple, custard-like dish that would make quite an impact with guests.Elio Perrone Moscato d'Asti ($13): An uplifting way to end such a meal, this style of moscato is bubbly, light-bodied and completely refreshing. It is a wine so riveting that it never ceases to amaze me.