Hawaii Regional Cuisine
calls for German rieslings

German riesling is one of the world's most beautiful classic wines -- and also perhaps the most misunderstood. Many think it is only for dessert, that you can't pair it with a meal, or that it has very limited pairing capability. Some also think it is only a sweet style of wine.

In fact, German rieslings can be as bone dry as any chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. Or, they can be uber-sweet. But for Hawaii Regional Cuisine, with its Asian-influenced flavors of soy sauce, curry and peppery heat, it is the best wine to pair with many dishes.

One thing that people find difficult about riesling is reading the labels. But it's not hard at all. Most German rieslings have a name something like this: 2003 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett. The year is, of course, when the grapes were grown. Josef Leitz is the producer (one of the best, I should mention). Rudesheim is the village it comes from (when you see an "er" at the end of a German word it most likely means "comes from" or "belongs to"). Klosterlay is the vineyard. Riesling is the grape. And finally, kabinett is the level of potential alcohol -- in layman's terms, the amount of sugar or ripeness the grapes had when picked.

There are five levels of what Germans call pradikat. From driest to sweetest, they are kabinett, spatlese, auslese, with beerenauslese and eiswein being at the same level, and trockenbeerenauslese being the top of the ladder. If you don't see one of these on the label, it usually means that the grapes did not come from a single vineyard, and is at about a level of sweetness between kabinett and spatlese.

Here is why I think rieslings are perfect for food in Hawaii: They are low in alcohol, 7 to 11 percent (alcohol becomes bitter and intensifies the heat of spices). They have no tannin, which also turns bitter with any leafy green or soy sauce. They have a wonderfully refreshing acidity that cleanses the palate of all the spices and they can handle the high acidity of vinaigrettes. Their balanced sweetness also counteracts the spice and heat in many dishes, as well as any saltiness.

Here are a few pairings that I hope will bring home my point:

The next time you do a steamed fish Chinese-style, with soy sauce, hot sesame oil, ginger and scallions, pair it with the 2003 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett ($17). This is a match made in heaven. The wine teems with fresh summer fruits and flowers, just a touch of sweetness and wonderful intensity and length of flavor!

Another killer pairing is any yellow Malaysian curry with the 2002 JJ Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett ($22). This wine is sheer pleasure, with scents of ripe pineapples, mango and lychee. Super bright acidity and sweetness that cleanses the palate of the heat and spice of the curry. It is also rich enough to stand up to any curry sauce with coconut milk.

Sweet and sour sauces are everywhere in Hawaii, and with them I would pair the 2002 Donnhoff Estate Riesling ($17). It has a magical nose of peaches, poached pears and a super-cleansing freshness. It also matches one of my favorites, orange chicken.

Germany has had a string of terrific vintages from 2000 to 2003. If you think German riesling is just for "sweeties," try it again with food. You'll be very surprised and will finally understand the "riesling" behind it.