Hawaii’s Back yard Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi

NCL AMERICA Guests boarding the Pride of Aloha are greeted by the gleaming "lobby" of the Aloha Atrium.

Buoyed by Pride

A seven-day interisland cruise offers indulgent
tastes and spectacular sights, including Kauai's
Na Pali Coast and a Big Isle lava flow

"Would it be possible for me to have a different kind of sundae?" I hopefully asked the server taking our party's dessert order our first night at sea.

"Anything is possible," he replied without batting an eye. "What did you have in mind?"

"Small -- really, really small -- scoops of the sherbets, frozen yogurt and the vanilla, chocolate, strawberry and rum-raisin ice creams," I rattled off. "And could you top that with the sauces -- chocolate fudge, butterscotch, caramel and raspberry? Yes, all of them. I can't make up my mind, so it would be great if I could taste a little of everything."

He smiled broadly. "No problem; we'd be happy to do that for you."

From that moment on, I knew I'd be in good hands aboard Pride of Aloha. I have to admit I'd been a bit anxious about this seven-day interisland cruise aboard NCL America's first U.S.-flagged ship (two more are due to start service here: Pride of America next June and Pride of Hawaii in 2006).

It'd be the longest time I'd ever spent on a ship, and concerns had dogged me. Would I be able to evade seasickness and claustrophobia? Cruise dining is known to be excessive; could I avoid gaining weight? Does the ship offer enough diversions to stave off boredom? Can an avowed landlubber like me find pleasure and fulfillment at sea?

The answers: yes, yes, yes and yes!

NCL AMERICA An ocean stateroom has a mini lanai for watching the islands go by.

Note for landlubbers No. 1

Measuring some 12 stories high and almost as long as three football fields, Pride of Aloha is a big ship whose sound construction and engineering enable it to absorb a lot of chop. Knowing that was reassuring, and, as it turned out, the weather was ideal when we traveled last month: warm and clear with light trades and calm seas.

I didn't have to down a single ginger pill or make any stops at the infirmary for Dramamine. It was smooth sailing all the way -- the first time I'd been on a boat for an extended period of time without being nauseous. I was ecstatic!

Claustrophobia also wound up being a needless worry. Our quarters were cozy but comfortable, and we were pretty much there only to sleep and shower anyway. We loved being high up on Deck 10, with a private lanai and an unobstructed ocean view everywhere we looked.

NCL AMERICA The Royal Palm Bistro is one of six restaurants on the Pride of Aloha, making dieting at sea impossible.

Note for landlubbers No. 2

This is not the time or place to diet; do that before or after your cruise. Shameless indulgence is part of the fun aboard Pride of Aloha, whether it be piling your plate high with burgers, baked beans, coleslaw and corn on the cob at a poolside barbecue or savoring escargots, filet mignon and chocolate fondue in a formal setting of candlelight, pressed linens and gleaming tableware.

We especially enjoyed our dinner at Pacific Heights, one of three "alternative" restaurants offering upscale menus and refined service. My choice of Kona Spring Rolls with Sweet Thai Chili Sauce, Hot-and-Sour Scallop Soup, Braised Lamb Shanks on Creamy Puna Goat Cheese Polenta and Lilikoi (Passion Fruit) Creme Brulee was on a par with the most memorable meals I've had at Alan Wong's. Honestly!

A delightful find: Slices of fresh-baked cheese, vegetarian and pepperoni pizza are available for takeout at Pacific Heights 'round the clock, except when the ship's restaurants are open for meals.

So, how do you keep your weight in check when there are temptations at every turn? Make it a daily routine to hit the jogging/walking track on Deck Six (one mile equals 3.5 laps); sign up for aerobics, yoga, body sculpting, kickboxing and Pilates classes; or work out for an hour at the fitness center, which is spacious and well equipped, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows on one side. Even better, it's open 24 hours so you can go whenever it's convenient.

I exercised every morning, ate whatever I wanted whenever I wanted and didn't gain a pound, but be warned: Sprinkles, the ice cream bar, could set you back.

NCL AMERICA The Pride of Aloha underwent a local-style makeover, complete with lei, before making its Hawaii debut.

Note for landlubbers No. 3

There's plenty to do! During the day, you may choose to stay on the ship, content in the company of a good book or participating in activities such as bridge, basketball tournaments, hula, Hawaiian arts and crafts, pool games, trivia contests, art auctions and seminars on skin care, reflexology and aromatherapy.

The beautifully designed Kumu Cultural Center is the heart of Pride of Aloha. On display are magnificent hand-stitched Hawaiian quilts; models of fishing, racing, war and voyaging canoes; spectacular images of volcanic eruptions and samples of pahoehoe (smooth) and aa (rough) lava; and glass cases filled with an eclectic collection of Hawaiiana, including ukuleles, kukui nut leis, sheet music, postcards, china adorned with striking floral patterns and photos of the islands dating to the turn of the last century.

Some of the items recall ancient times: wooden calabashes, war clubs, fishhooks, poi pounders, tapa and tapa beaters, hula implements, kahili (royal feather standards) and a konane (checkers) board carved from stone. Created by contemporary artisans after actual centuries-old artifacts, they provide insightful glimpses of life in old Hawaii.

Video presentations in the cultural center run continuously and change daily; topics include volcanoes, humpback whales, Pacific marine life and tropical gardens. We enjoyed browsing here but regretted there was never a kumu on hand to "talk story" and answer questions during the half-dozen times we visited.

If you're like me and fancy the feel of terra firma under your feet, you'll be happy to learn that a big part of cruising in Hawaii is going ashore. Pride of Aloha takes you to five ports in seven days, so make the most of it. Among the 144 shore excursions are options that will surprise even longtime kamaaina.

NCL AMERICA There's plenty of ways to stay entertained during seven days at sea. There's a spa, swimming pools, wedding chapel, gym and nightclubs and bars. Shown is the entry to the Blue Hawaii.

For example, brand new and definitely worthwhile are two Big Island tours that spotlight farms growing hearts of palm, exotic mushrooms, vanilla, chocolate, strawberries and coffee. They're tucked in some of the prettiest pockets of the island, and, best of all, the owners are your guides. You'll be able to meet and chat with these innovative, hard-working farmers, sample their products and purchase your favorites to take home.

In the evenings, we took in as much of the on-board entertainment as we could. Hats off in particular to John Shyrock, who's as gifted a comedian as he is an illusionist; pianist-vocalist Dean Fransen, who's in complete command of the elegant Captain Cook's Bar; and the Jean-Ann Ryan Company, which stages three different shows during the week ("Sea Legs Cirque" is a sensual, graceful, powerful and visually stimulating exhibition of ballet, acrobatics and interpretive dance).

Night owls can relive the '70s at a disco party, study the skies with an expert from Bishop Museum and strut their stuff in a talent contest. Find out how much you really know about your spouse during the Not-So-Newlywed Game; grab the mic and croon a tune or two on Krazy Karaoke nights; and count down to midnight with streamers, noisemakers and bottles of bubbly at a New Year's Eve Party (who cares it's actually the middle of summer?).

The only down night is Friday, when about 600 people disembark to attend a luau on Maui. We decided to skip this, thinking there'd be fewer crowds in the theater and lounges.

What we didn't expect were no crowds because there wasn't any live entertainment scheduled between 5:30 and 9:30 p.m., when less than a third of the passengers were at the luau. Considering the majority of guests stay on board Friday nights, we really hope this changes and the ship's stages don't remain dark.

Note for landlubbers No. 4

Pride of Aloha rewards you with inspiring perspectives of Hawaii that you can't get from land. Tuesday afternoon, before we headed to the Big Island, we glided past the entire length of Kauai's Na Pali Coast, a breathtaking panorama to which no photograph can do full justice.

Coastal caves, beaches unmarred by footprints, waterfalls caressing the faces of lofty, fluted cliffs -- this is a spectacle that hasn't changed since Kauai was born more than 5 million years ago. Witnessing this, we were overcome by feelings of awe, humility and gratitude.

The next night, sailing from Hilo to Kona, we huddled with dozens of others outside the Outrigger Lounge on Deck 11. It was windy and chilly but the sky was clear and sprinkled with stars, and we had been promised a view we would never forget.

"There it is!" someone shouted. An orange glow appeared before us, faint at first but burning ever brighter as we approached. Soon we could see wide rivers of molten lava spilling into the sea. Clouds of smoke danced above the flows, and even from this distance we could detect the sulfur in the air.

New land was being born right before our eyes, thanks to the wondrous fury of Kilauea Volcano. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many on Deck 11 that night.

In short, our trip was peppered with good times and amazing discoveries -- just the right balance of fun, adventure and relaxation. If you've never been on a cruise and are game to try one now, Pride of Aloha is a great way to get your feet wet.

About the Pride of Aloha

Bon Voyage!

Sunday: Board at Honolulu Harbor's Piers 10-11 any time between 1 and 7 p.m. Depart at 8 p.m.

Monday: Arrive in Nawiliwili, Kauai, 7 a.m.

Tuesday: Depart Nawiliwili, 1 p.m.

Wednesday: Arrive in Hilo, Big Island, 9 a.m. Depart at 7 p.m.

Thursday: Arrive in Kailua-Kona, Big Island, 7 a.m. Depart at 6 p.m.

Friday: Arrive in Kahului, Maui, at 8 a.m.

Saturday: Depart Kahului at 6 p.m.

Sunday: Arrive in Honolulu at 7 a.m. Debarkation is roughly between 8 and 10:30 a.m.

Note: All times are subject to change, so double-check these with your travel agent or NCL representative.

Ship shape

Entered service: August 1999 as Norwegian Sky. Entered service June 2004 as NCL America's first U.S.-flagged vessel

Length: 853 feet

Breadth: 108 feet

Speed: 23 knots

Guest decks: 12

Guest capacity: 2,002, double occupancy

Elevators: 12

TV/radio/phone/refrigerator/safe: In all staterooms

Restaurants: Six, all offering Freestyle Cruising dining with open seating and late-night hours. There is a surcharge for the three alternative restaurants: Pacific Heights ($12.50 per person), Kahili ($15) and Royal Palm Bistro ($15).

Lounges/bars: 13, including the Stardust Theater, a two-story show lounge that accommodates 1,000, and the 24-hour Internet Cafe, offering Web access on nine computer terminals.

Other facilities/amenities: three swimming pools (including one for kids), five hot tubs, a medical center, library, photo gallery, jogging/walking track, golf driving net, basketball/volleyball court, batting cage, shuffleboard area, children's playroom, a gathering spot for teens, wedding chapel, video arcade, shopping galleria, Hawaiian cultural center, full-service spa, beauty salon, gym/aerobics area, ice cream bar and a conference center with three meeting rooms accommodating a total of 126 people.

Notes: A $10-per-person-per-day service charge ($5 for ages 3 through 12) is automatically billed. A 15 percent service fee is charged for each spa visit. At your discretion, to note exceptional service, you might wish to leave a separate gratuity for your room stewards, restaurant servers, estheticians, hairstylists and therapists. A tax-deductible $5-per-stateroom charitable contribution to Bishop Museum also appears on your statement, which can be adjusted if you choose.

Fares: Cruises aboard Pride of Aloha begin at $879 per person, double occupancy. Rates for children traveling as a third or fourth guest in a stateroom start at $349. For more information, visit the Web site www.ncl.com, call your travel agent or call NCL at 800-327-7030.