Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga
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Japanese sake has gained much popularity in Hawaii due to a few dedicated distributors and die-hard fanciers. Fast on its heels is an Okinawan distilled spirit called awamori that is also making its mark in the islands.
The basics: Awamori, or Okinawan sake has been compared to Japanese sake, but there are distinct differences in distilling process and taste. The process used to make awamori dates back thousands of years and was believed to have come from Thailand.
The Okinawans refined the technique, using a special black koji (yeast) indigenous to Okinawa, which is introduced to steamed rice to make a kind of mash. That mixture is allowed to ferment for a couple of weeks and out of this is distilled a 100 percent pure spirit with no additives.
Awamori is aged three to eight years, resulting in a very fragrant and mellow liquor. It is often mixed with water and served with ice, but the finest kushu awamori (aged eight years or longer) should be enjoyed straight up.
Awamori is also an essential part of Okinawan cuisine and is used in dishes from braised pork to simmered miso sauces.
Selecting: Only about 5 percent of the awamori produced in Okinawa is exported and only a limited number of brands is available in Hawaii. But Awamori Spirits, a company specializing in awamori importing, hopes to increase the selection by the end of the year.
The company currently imports three types: one with 25 percent alcohol and aged three years, another with 35 percent alcohol and aged five years, and a premium variety that is 35 percent alcohol content and aged more than 10 years.
Storing: Because awamori is a distilled spirit it will age nicely over time. Historical records have documented awamori aged for hundreds of years. Today's fanciers have been known to store awamori in Okinawa's limestone caves to be opened by future generations of their families. Make sure the bottle is tightly capped, then simply store on the shelf.
Use: In addition to being consumed as a drink, awamori is also an important ingredient in Okinawan cuisine. Most awamori used for cooking is in the 25 percent alcohol range. Many pork dishes (the signature of Okinawan cuisine) utilize awamori, which helps not only to tenderize, but adds a distinct flavor, much in the way that sake does in Japanese cuisine. Recently, chefs have experimented with non-traditional uses of awamori in such recipes as sorbets and fancy cocktails.
Where to buy: Awamori is available at Daiei, Marukai, Star Market (Moiliili) and the Liquor Collection at Ward Warehouse. Prices vary depending on quantity and brand.
Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com
