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The Weekly Eater Nadine Kam |
Tudo de Bom’s manly,
meaty meals are "da bomb"LAST WEEK we sampled Plantation Cafe's limited-time offering of some of the dishes of Portugal, and this week we explore some of the offerings of its former colony, Brazil.
Now, that could mean anything from the dishes bearing the influence of native Indians, to Portuguese, to Africans, Italians, Germans, Middle Easterners and Asians. But what captures the imagination of Americans is the romantic vision of -- wouldn't you know it -- the gaucho, the cowboy, the stoic, heroic loner living wild and free on the range. Well, myths persist, but there's no denying the allure of the outdoors and the cowboy's natural cuisine, barbecue.
Enter Tudo de Bom, which picks up where Acqua left off back in the '90s. Acqua's management had been casting about for something unique, and came up with The Rodizio Experience, with waiters making the rounds of tables bearing all manner of skewered meat.
The sword-wielding waiters are back, but this time around, most are actually from Brazil, which conveys authenticity but comes with its own set of minor dilemmas. Some are a bit shy about speaking English and cannot answer basic questions about the menu, while others just lack the patience to deal with the inevitable questions of the inexperienced or inquisitive, and there will be questions given the novelty of the format.
And while Acqua had the luxury of professional waiters, we encountered young students who don't inspire much confidence in their handling of knives. My tablemate was asked to help by grasping a slice with tongs and nearly got cut. OK, so she is clumsy, but there are a lot of klutzes out there -- I see them driving all the time -- so be careful in maneuvering your way to the buffet as well.
Maybe its that aura of sharp blades and danger and manly meals, GRRRAWRR!, that's most appealing, and wouldn't you know, it's been men who have been asking about this place.
At Tudo de Bom, waiters like Luis Felicio go from table to table serving meat on skewers, a Brazilian tradition. Yuri Boggs enjoys the novel experience.
IT TURNS OUT Acqua was ahead of its time, having recognized that Hawaii diners love meat, but introducing The Rodizio Experience long before no-carb became a household mantra.
Tudo de Bom is positioned to cash in on that dietary craze, not to mention the public's general boredom in seeing the same formulas replayed over and over.
Tudo de Bom's format is a buffet that runs $18.95 per person Mondays to Thursdays, and $21.95 for weekends and holidays, about the price of a nice steak dinner. If you have that extra $3, I recommend that you go on the weekend, when they're more likely to bring out the splashy stuff: lobster, salmon and crab, plus babyback ribs and lamb. Otherwise, you'll pretty much be looking at steak, steak and more steak on the weekdays.
Basics of the salad bar are tossed salad, starchy yucca fries, black beans, pasta and mashed potatoes. Some entrees are offered, such as fried fish fillets or feijoada, the traditional black bean and pork stew, but you never know which day will be the one, unless you call ahead and ask. I sure wish I could have sampled the Bahia shrimp, something I've only read about in cookbooks.
Your trips to the salad bar are unlimited, as is the parade of rotisserie meat, about 2 to 3 ounces per slice, which really add up, especially when most dietitians would suggest you limit your intake to 3 ounces of meat, if any, a day. Unfortunately, you'll have to sample them all to determine your favorites from maminha (tri-tip roast) to fraldinha (skirt steak). I liked the extra flavor that came with the top sirloin garlic steak and pepper steak, and the garlic-oregano marinated shish kebab.
After all that beef, you'll find reprieve through coxa de galinha, a tender roasted chicken drumstick, and turkey breast and bacon roulade.
If you save any room in your stomach, you might finish with flan or equally rich passionfruit mousse. Dessert and soft drinks will cost you extra.
Tudo de Bom, by the way, translates as "It's all good" or "Everything good," but Americans are as likely to say, "It's the bomb!"
McCully Shopping Center, 1960 Kapiolani Boulevard #204 / 942-0267 Tudo de Bom
Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays to Fridays; 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays to Thursdays; to 11 p.m. Fridays; and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays
Food 
Service Ambience Value Cost: Lunch $12.95 per person; dinner $18.95 or $21.95 per person; half price for children 4 through 12; B.Y.O.B.
See some past restaurant reviews in the Columnists section.
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
