Hawaii’s
Back yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Kahua Ranch is a page
out of Big Island’s
paniolo historyDuring the hour it takes to drive from Kailua-Kona to North Kohala on the Big Island, the landscape undergoes an amazing transformation. Stark, sun-baked expanses of ebony lava yield to pretty hills and pastures cloaked in lush green. In contrast to the hot, sunny clime of the coast -- which at times can be oppressive -- North Kohala is cool, crisp and on many a day, veiled in an ethereal mist.
This is paniolo (cowboy) country -- "heaven," as Raymond Foat describes it.
Foat's company, Big Island Discovery, specializes in cultural and historical tours of the Big Island. Launched three-and-a-half years ago, "An Evening at Kahua Ranch" has emerged as one of the company's most popular offerings.
"It's a wonderful escape to North Kohala, a beautiful rural area of the Big Island," says Foat. "It's a chance for city slickers -- both visitors and local residents -- to experience the very best of paniolo life at a real working cattle ranch."
Ranching will be tops on your mind from the moment you board Big Island Discovery's motor coach. You'll learn that in 1793, British Capt. George Vancouver introduced cattle as a gift to the Hawaiian people from England's royal family. Some 40 years later, King Kamehameha III brought vaqueros from California to teach the Hawaiians how to rope, ride and manage the Big Island's cattle, which had grown into big wild herds.
Founded in 1847, famed Parker Ranch was the first of many ranches to flourish in the district of North Kohala. As the road ascends to 3,000 feet above sea level, the views encompass the verdant acreage of ranch after ranch, pastoral scenes of paddocks and cactus and grazing horses and cattle straight out of "Bonanza."
"It's such a refreshing change from the traffic and skyscrapers most of our guests are accustomed to," notes Foat. "When they step off the motor coach, they're so excited. Some of them have never seen horses, cattle, sheep and pigs up close before."
In fact, meeting Kahua Ranch's menagerie is part of the fun. There's Budweiser, the cat, and Bear, Jack and Shadow, the friendly dogs. There's Laka, the beer-drinking cow pony, and Piggly Wiggly, an adorable sow who was found, orphaned, on ranch land when she was just four days old. Command Piggly Wiggly to "Sit" for a bite of bread and she'll do so right on cue.
"An Evening at Kahua Ranch" allows city slickers the opportunity to experience rural North Kohala, where the sheep graze on lush hills.
Kahua Ranch hands and members of the kamaaina Richards family, which has owned the ranch for six generations, also will be on hand to greet you. If John Richards, ranch operations and facilities manager, is there, you're in for a treat; he's a genial, gifted storyteller who'll share fascinating tales about the 8,500-acre spread as sunset paints the sky with broad strokes of orange, pink and lavender, and the distant image of neighboring Maui slowly fades in the darkening sky.
"It's a really open, down-home 'talk story' session," notes Foat. "It's not just John talking. There's constant interaction between him and the guests, and even after this part of the program is over, people flock around him to talk more. Because he loves ranching so much, he sparks an interest in it in other people."
Don't be shy; bring up whatever questions you might have. Richards welcomes them.
Invariably, someone will ask, "Why did you open your ranch to visitors?" Richards replies: "People these days don't know where their food comes from anymore. We want to educate them."
To that end, everything in the hearty all-you-can-eat dinner buffet has been raised or produced at Kahua Ranch or by farmers in the surrounding communities. Musicians match the music to the mood -- exuberant, lively, upbeat.
As the evening winds down, you'll join other guests beside a roaring campfire fed by fragrant kiawe wood, and marshmallows, Graham crackers and chocolate bars are passed around to make s'mores. All eyes turn to Kahua Ranch's paniolo as they talk about what it's like to work the land and ride the range on the Big Island.
"In our fast-paced modern world, where there's so much emphasis on technology, these cowboys show there's wisdom and value in keeping close to the earth," says Foat. "At the end of the day, their bodies may ache and their hands and clothes may be grimy, but they've got smiles on their faces and peace in their hearts.
"That says it all, doesn't it? There's something very rich and rewarding about living the simple life, and we give guests a taste of that during 'An Evening at Kahua Ranch.'"
Visitors meet up with such kooky critters as Laka, a beer-drinking cow pony and Piggly Wiggly, a sow who sits and begs for treats like a dog.
An Evening at Kahua Ranch
Place: Kahua Ranch, North Kohala, Big IslandDays: Tuesday, Thursday and one other floating day each week (call ahead for schedule)
Time: Pick-up from Waikoloa Village and Kohala Coast resorts at 5 p.m. this time of year, which enables participants to arrive at the ranch in time for sunset. Departure time is earlier during the winter months. For groups of 10 or more, transportation can be provided from Kailua-Kona.
Cost: $89 per person, $46 for children 6 to 11. Kids 5 and younger admitted free. Kamaaina rates are $72 for adults and $36 for children. Price includes roundtrip transportation from the designated areas; dinner and beverages (wine, beer, soda and juice); music; dancing; and other activities.
Note: An Evening at Kahua Ranch is held in an enclosed, protected venue, however, it's recommended that you wear warm clothing, i.e., jeans, a long-sleeved shirt or sweater, a jacket and covered shoes because temperatures can be 15 degrees lower than at coastal resort areas. For more information about the ranch's other recreational options, including ATV tours and horseback rides, call 808-882-7954 or check out www.kahuaranch.com. Big Island Discovery also offers a Circle Island Tour, including a stop at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park; a Kona Historical Tour, including Puuhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge); and a Kohala Historical Tour, including Puukohola Heiau.
Call: 808-987-2108
E-mail: contact@eveningatkahua.com
Web site: www.eveningatkahua.com
See the Columnists section for some past articles.
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.
