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By The Glass Roberto Viernes |
Winemakers offer
a world of great redsMy article last month decoded some of the world's classic white wines. This time I'd like to go over some of the great red wines that fill the wine lists in our local restaurants and the shelves of wine retailers everywhere. With such a wonderful array of imported wines to try, it is inevitable that you will find something to like.
Let's start in Italy. Probably the most famous red from Italy is chianti, based on the versatile grape, sangiovese. But brunello di montalcino and vino nobile di montepulciano, two wines just as famous to wine fanatics, are also made from clones of the sangiovese grape -- but in different areas of Tuscany. Just thinking about Tuscany brings to mind the cathedral, museums, the picturesque countryside and terrific cuisine!
In general, chianti is softer and lighter than most brunellos, which are richer, riper and sleeker. Vino nobiles are somewhere in between. A leading estate that makes both chianti and brunello is Marchese de Frescobaldi. This family estate has been making wine for 700 years (they've had a lot of practice)!
The estate's 2002 Frescobaldi Chianti Castiglioni ($11) is a terrific example of ripe, rich sangiovese flavor. It is blended with 10 percent merlot for complexity and a very polished mouth-feel that makes you want to have it with some wild mushroom risotto.
If you can afford it and love rich reds, you should absolutely try the 1998 Frescobaldi Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo ($45). This is a sure palate-pleaser with intense blackberry, vanillin, full body and thick richness that goes heavenly with a perfectly grilled T-bone steak.
Another imported wine that really lends itself to roasted meats is bordeaux. Nine times out of 10 when you see a bottle labeled Chateau So and So, it is from Bordeaux. That usually means it is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. Most are a majority cabernet sauvignon, except wines from Pomerol and St. Emilion, names that will be listed on the label. These wines have a majority of merlot and cabernet franc, respectively.
The Bordelaise realized that blending these grapes gave their wines more complexity. Most bordeaux are rarefied in price, but many values can be found. One of those is the 2000 Chateau Recougne Terra Recognita ($15). Not only is this wine from the awesome 2000 vintage, it tastes like a wine twice the price. It smells of plum, smoke, sweet oak and mocha and tastes of expansive flavors of berries and vanilla.
A more elegant version of bordeaux can be found in the 2000 Chateau Haut Beausejour ($25). With merlot dominating the blend, this wine is supple and smooth, with ripe notes of cocoa, sandalwood and cooked berries. The most adventurous pairing with these wines would be a killer flame-grilled burger -- try it and see!
With the popularity of syrah, aka shiraz, at an all-time high, it's even more fun to look at this grape's most classic growing region, the Rhone Valley, France. Here, the revered appellations of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Cornas and St. Joseph line terraces along the Rhone River. This is where syrah from the Old World reaches its highest heights.
Few wines can show such longevity and class. Many examples of the best are highly sought after by connoisseurs, and are highly priced. For value I look no further than the 2001 JL Chave St. Joseph Offerus ($25). Jean Louis Chave is considered by most as the master of world-class syrah. This bottle comes from old vines, many 50 to 60 years old. It has a beautiful scent of spice, lavender, olives, berries and herbs. The palate is lush with fruit, intensely concentrated without being heavy or burdensome -- just delicious. Lamb and game are a natural pairing that will leave you thirsting for more.
There is more to life than just California wine. And many imported wines are even better matches with food than their domestic counterparts. With so many choices, don't be afraid to try something new.
Roberto Viernes is wine educator with Southern Wine & Spirits. This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com