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Barfly

Jason Genegabus


Fisherman’s Wharf
needs salvaging


DO YOU remember a teacher ever telling you that a talented mind is a terrible thing to waste?

Well, the same holds true for bars. A watering hole with a potential shouldn't be allowed to wallow in mediocrity, yet that's exactly what's happening to the cocktail lounge at Fisherman's Wharf on Ala Moana.

These days, most local residents drive right by the area on their way to another bar nearby. Personally, I can't remember ever stepping foot inside this place.

So earlier this week, instead of ignoring the little voice in the back of my mind that wondered what it would be like to grab a beer there, I headed for Kewalo Basin with the intent of talking with some of the bar's regulars.

What keeps them coming back, more than 50 years after the restaurant first opened for business?


Fisherman's Wharf Cocktail Lounge
Hours: 4 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays; 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays; 4 to 9:30 p.m.
Location: 1009 Ala Moana
Phone: 538-3808

fly


FIRST OFF, I had to get into the joint before I could talk to anyone. Pulling into the Fisherman's Wharf parking lot, I only spotted three other cars parked there -- not a good sign.

Walk up to the front of the restaurant and you'll find the cocktail lounge on the right hand side, with an entrance made to look like you're boarding a ship. There aren't any windows in the lounge, just a couple of portholes visible behind a huge anchor and propeller that sit out front. But whatever you do, don't try to get in through the lounge's front door - it's locked!

At first, I wasn't sure if the bar was open. Peering through a porthole, I could tell that the television behind the bar was on, but I didn't see a single customer in the room. It wasn't until I walked into the restaurant itself that I realized there was another way in, through a pair of swinging doors just to the right of the waiting area.

LOOKING AROUND the bar, it appears there hasn't been any remodeling done in at least the last 20 years. Six wooden barstools here all look well-worn, as do the half-dozen tables that line the perimeter of the room.

The padded bar rail, normally a place where you'd rest your arms between 12-ounce curls, is an eyesore. It's got rips and tears everywhere, and using electrical tape to cover the blemishes only makes things worse. I eventually had to use a newspaper as a makeshift barrier - talk about annoying!

It was also kind of scary to look around and be able to see where the management had previously hung pictures and other artwork from the walls. Again, it's pretty apparent nothing has been done to refurbish this place, only enough to stay open for business and keep city building inspectors off the restaurant's back.

ALTHOUGH I had intended to chat with some of the regulars here, it turned out that I was basically the only customer during my visit. Except for a family of tourists who stopped by to kill some time before their dinner reservations at John Dominis, the restaurant's employees were the only ones to walk in while I was there.

Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest nights, I was told, but how crazy can it get when last call is at 9:30 p.m.?

Like a lot of other businesses near Waikiki, tourist traffic is what keeps this place open. According to the bartender on duty when I stopped by, the cocktail lounge is primarily there to service the restaurant's customers.

While there are a few longtime kamaaina who continue to visit the same bar they've been drinking at for decades, it's obvious that the cocktail lounge is an afterthought at the restaurant.

And that's too bad, because like I said, a bar with potential is a terrible thing to waste. Spend some money sprucing up the lounge and promote it to a younger crowd, and alcohol sales will definitely go up here. There's also enough space to add a pair of turntables, and with the right drink specials in place, I'm sure some folks would be willing to pregame at Fisherman's Wharf before moving on to bigger and better things.


How much for a Bud Light?
The Barfly paid $3.25 for a Bud Light during his visit to Fisherman's Wharf. Seeing a lack of bottles on the back bar was kind of unsettling, as was the lone beer tap (which obviously hadn't been used in at least a decade). It is a tourist stop, however, so there is a special menu with a variety of fruity drinks that might be worth trying.

Get things to do?
A single television provided the only means of entertainment the night the Barfly stopped by, and like everything else in the bar, it looked ancient compared to the TVs you'll find at other watering holes. A lone Megatouch game machine is also in the room, but I discovered it wasn't on when I tried to feed it some quarters.

What about the grinds?
If you're looking for some pupus to go with your drinks, this place might not be for you. I was given the restaurant's dinner menu when I asked about pupus, and after struggling to get through the shrimp cocktail ($7.95), I decided it might be a good idea to cut my losses early -- are you really supposed to chew on shrimp like it's bubble gum? Other menu items include crab-stuffed mushrooms ($8.50), pulehu steak ($15.95), twin lobster tail ($25.95) and crab linguine ($16.95).

And the help?
Since I was the only one at the bar, I had no problem getting a drink or striking up a conversation with the bartender working that night. It seemed like he was pretty indifferent to the lack of customers, preferring instead to tell me how busy it was the night before. At least the beer was cold, and I didn't have to wait for a new bottle when I was finished!




See the Columnists section for some past articles.

Barfly appears every Friday in Star-Bulletin Weekend.
E-mail Jason Genegabus at jason@starbulletin.com with suggestions of neighborhood bars to visit.



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