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By The Glass Chuck Furuya |
Warmer weather means
turning to lighter winesIn Hawaii, spring is much more of an attitudinal thing than a climactic one. Still, warmer weather means turning to lighter, fresher wines and stashing the chardonnays, merlots and cabernets away for cooler weather. Here are a few recent finds apropos to this theme:
Ruggeri Prosecco "Gold Label" Italian Prosecco ($18): This wine is a hot commodity on the mainland and deservedly so. When done well, prosecco is off-dry to dry, effortlessly light, uplifting and completely refreshing. The very best I've had is from Ruggeri in Valdobbiadene, Italy. These wines are riveting refreshing, yet delicate, refined and intricate. I was captivated with this remarkable Italian bubbly at a recent tasting and highly recommend it for weddings and other festive occasions. It works well with a surprisingly diverse number of island foods. This is a bubbly you can have fun with.
Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio ($18): I visited this estate in my 20s and met with Livio, then in his 80s. I remember asking him why he planted his vines on steep hillsides instead of the easier-to-farm plateau at the top of the hill near his house. Today I understand that this is one of the secrets to his fabulous, tasty and unique pinot grigio.
Makor Pinot Blanc "Bien Nacido" ($18): Produced from the "true" pinot blanc grape (suitcased back from France and planted in Santa Barbara's Santa Maria Valley). Here is a wine with terrific intensity and texture, yet much lighter in body than chardonnay, making it an ideal springtime white wine. Only 97 cases were produced. This is a steal.
Makor Zinfandel "Arroyo Grande" (less than $20): Owner/winemaker Jim Adelman also makes a small amount of zinfandel (250 cases). This is a zinfandel crafted by a pinot-noir maker, resulting in a much sleeker, more elegant, contemporary-minded red wine, as opposed to the heartier, more robust, high-alcohol zins we have been accustomed to. Serve slightly cooled with barbecued meats.
Costa de Oro Pinot Noir "Gold Coast Vineyard" ($22): Too many pinots today are dark and almost syrah-like in color. Not the case here. Costa de Oro makes very pretty, feminine, elegant, highly refined pinot noir that is so wonderfully perfumed (I could smell this wine all night) and seductive.
Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais ($15): This French Beaujolais is just so right for spring and, I must say, there aren't many like Dupeuble. His vines average 50 years in age, and he farms organically. He adds no sugar or sulfur during winemaking and bottles the wines unfiltered and unrefined. In other words, this is as natural and authentic of a beaujolais as you can get. Tasty, interesting and most important, alive with purity, tradition, heritage and culture. It captures an attitude ... of the way it should be.
Chuck Furuya, Hawaii's only master sommelier, is a partner at Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com