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By The Glass Lyle Fujioka |
Proper pairing
for corned beefThe classic St. Patrick's Day repast of corned beef and cabbage presents particular problems for me as a staunch proponent of pairing wines of a region with cuisine of the region. Why? Well, when was the last time you had a killer bottle of Irish red wine? Now, I enjoy a cold, frosty green beer just as much as the next guy, but what are you going to do if you're a wine lover like me?
My main concern is dealing with the aggressively briny nature of corned beef and the earthy, sometimes funky, contribution of the cabbage. Make the wrong choice and you'll be beating a shillelagh against your head.
While we're on the subject, PLEASE, PLEASE do not overcook the cabbage. There isn't a wine, or beer for that matter, that will work with the sulfurous odors and flavors that will result. Think mild crunch, not mush. Gently parboil the cabbage ahead of time and add appropriate amounts to the corned beef cooking liquid just before serving.
The best wines for this occasion will downplay the overt saltiness of this dish and accentuate the natural sweetness of the cabbage. Mildly fruity white wines with excellent balance and well-integrated acidity are the ticket, despite this being a beef dish. Save your high-octane reds for another day to prevent a crushing one-two punch of alcohol and salt to your palate. Here are a few recommendations:
Palacio de Menade Cuevas De Castilla Rueda Cuvee R.S. 2002 ($8.95): Simple, clean Spanish white with aromas reminiscent of a sauvignon blanc and light citrus, apple and mineral flavors.
Domaines Schlumberger Les Princees Abbés Pinot Blanc 2002 ($9.95): Great Alsatian white with spicy apple, pear and melon flavors that linger, finishing with minerals and light acidity.
Gramona Gessami 2002 ($9.95): Delicate honeysuckle and orange-blossom aromas frame luscious lime-infused tropical flavors with a kiss of sweetness. Serve this wine cool rather than cold to preserve the beautiful nose.
Sherwood Marlborough Pinot Noir 2001 ($13.95): Soft, pinot noir showing bright red cherry with spicy nuances.
Lyle Fujioka owns Fujioka's Wine Merchants.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com