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[ SPRING FASHION ]


art
GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM
The mood of spring is captured in sterling silver, from top, a moonstone necklace ($190), long hammer earrings done in peach Hermaline ($155) on a petal-pink bow belt ($32) and a lariat necklace with a green Chrysalis cascade down the center ($170). The jewelry is from Rafael at Ala Moana Center, the belt from Banana Republic.


Yum!


IF you pride yourself in keeping a neutral wardrobe, preferring to observe rather than be observed no matter the season, here's a warning: You'll probably stick out like a sore thumb without donning a tint or two this spring.

There's no escaping color as it pours its full spectrum upon us from standard pinks and dusty blues, to exotic watermelons, persimmons and more.

Not to fear, accessories might be the answer for the color-shy, in bringing last season's wardrobe into the present. Think of these pieces as a spoonful of sugar or, rather, as Mari Stewart of Rafael sees it, candy.

"Walking into the shop this season will be like walking into a candy store. The colors -- for accessories as well -- are so yummy, you can't resist the desire to buy."

Fashion boutiques and high-end merchandisers take their trend cues from Hollywood and fashion runways, while the consumer is on standby, ready to jump on the incoming goodies. Either that, or impatiently wait until reasonable facsimiles, also known as knockoffs, roll off the assembly line and into shops.

Whether you're a conservative, watching your pennies, or a full-on clotheshorse, the looks for accessories such as shoes, jewelry and bags, run the gamut of the extremes, so there's something for everyone.

"The season comes in on the heels of the academy awards, and the shapes there were long," said Stewart, noting elongated earrings on the lobes of starlets such as best actress winner Charlize Theron, and the return to classic, feminine lines of gowns at the Oscars.

We'll still see chandeliers earrings this season, but not as wide, more lengthy. Stewart is stocking Rafael display cases with rose-toned gold jewelry, which is pricier than 14-karat gold, but the "pinky tone makes it very pretty." Also returning are short and spiky kitty heels by Sigerson Morrison which are feminine, flirty and fun, all characteristics of the season, she said.


art
GEORGE F. LEE / GLEE@STARBULLETIN.COM
Clockwise from left are a leather T-strap yacht sandal ($78) and lizard-embossed leather belt in turquoise with silver buckle ($32), both from Banana Republic. A Tylie suede purse ($250) can be custom-ordered with your choice of colored leather and stones. The Jeffry Campbell sandals ($49), in pink, look like a slipper but have a sexy heel.


Sharon Price's Los Angeles buying trip saw miles of metallics. "They're definitely going retro this spring," said Price, owner of Shasa Emporium at Kahala Mall, recalling images of Jennifer Beal in off-shoulder "Flashdance" gear.

Belts are thinner and colorful, some with bows attached, said Price, "lots of gold and silver belts, too, like in the '80s."

Price will stock Shasa with Jeffry Campbell slipperlike shoes in gummy bear-toned combinations of pink/brown, chartreuse/turquoise and, for the firm conservatives, patent black and stark white.

Tylie purses in a suede with rhinestone-studded leather straps can be purchased off the shelves or custom-ordered with choice of colors and rhinestones.

Lucy Chelini, of Neiman Marcus, whose buyers are "right there standing alongside runways," said, "You can't be afraid of color, not this season," adding, "Pink has become the staple color for spring."

This is evident from mannequins and clothes carousels on the first floor of the upscale store, which is a sea of spring hues, predominantly dotted in pinks, from the conservative plaid of a Burberry bag to the trim of a Lucite-inspired belt. Lucite, which resembles plastic but has more clout, is also big this season used to mod, see-through effect on purses, belts and shoes.

Sunglasses are moving away from rimless to flashy, with more of the bigger plastic frames reminiscent of the '60s.

The extremes in footwear include the Manolo Blahnik's lingerie-inspired lace, pointed-toe, stiletto shoe; a fun Pucci high-heel wedge in vibrant swirling swooshes of fuchsia, lemon and orange; and the sports shoes, gone upscale and color mad. Round-toed shapes of the '40s still attempt to gain footing, but for the most part, pointy toes still dominate, and open-toe sandals continue their reign.

"Accessories bring you up to the current season fast," said Chelini, who suggests that if one allows herself to splurge on a single item this season, it should be a good -- and colorful -- purse.

There's no shortage of options: a Juicy Couture beach-inspired terry tote; Tod's leather "candy wrapper bag," which got its moniker for the cinch of leather that mimics the cellophane twist of hard candy packaging; and basket-weave purses by Kate Spade.

For the traditionalist, Chelini suggests sprucing up wardrobe staples with a splash of color used in shoes or earrings, then highlighting them with a matching T.

While mainlanders "feel the effects of the season immediately," Hawaii takes a little longer, said Price. "Trends don't always catch on here, but as people see them in media -- MTV, for instance -- they'll come in looking for it.

"Here, we aren't risk takers; we want to know that it's hot first, then buy it. We don't want to waste money or look dumb."

Trench coats, which are popular on the mainland, wouldn't fare too well here, said Price. "In Hawaii we'd just look ridiculous, but every designer was doing that on the mainland."

There are too few occasions in which a trench coat would be appropriate in Hawaii, such as in a club or if the weather called for it, said Price.

And while it takes Hawaii a bit to catch up with trends, Stewart said this time of year, "We're in sync with the rest of the country.

"Spring is an easy season. With fall and winter we're struggling with the fabrics. For spring, with its color, the light fabrics and flowery prints, it works well here. Plus, the colors they're coming out with this season are easier to wear," she said, referring to the muted tones.

There's plenty out there to satisfy a sweet tooth for accessories. Eat 'em up. Yum.


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FASHION SENSE

Color codes


What will I wear today? Whether we're conscious of it or not, the decision we make involves color. Your mood often dictates what you put on.

Feeling bad and don't care who knows it? Throw on the grubby gray sweats.

Fighting the feeling? Maybe the fuchsia top's a better weapon.

Color has the power to influence mood and feeling, and affects each of us differently whether by cultural association or individual experiences. Researchers in the field have found the following:


Red: The color of love, fire and passion is the most emotionally intense. It stimulates a faster heartbeat and breathing. Red clothing gets noticed but can make the wearer appear heavier. It can be uplifting and convey power and energy but might invite confrontation. Rooms with red accents can cause people to lose track of time, thus are favored by bars and casinos. Red cars are a target for thefts. Restaurants often use red as a decorating scheme because of its appetite-stimulant function.

Pink: A tranquilizing color, it makes people calm and soft-hearted. When prison cells were painted pink, it reduced aggressive behavior among prisoners until, with time, their bodies retained equilibrium to its effects and reverted. University of Iowa football coach Hayden Fry had the college's visiting team locker room painted pink, hoping it would make the opponents lose energy.

Yellow: Though considered an optimistic color, people lose their tempers more often in bright yellow rooms, and babies will cry more. It is the most difficult color for the eye to take in, so it can be overpowering if overused. When used in small amounts, it produces sensations of brightness and warmth. Certain shades convey an easygoing attitude toward life.

Blue: Represents solitude, sadness, depression, wisdom, trust and loyalty. It has a sobering effect on the mind and can cause people to be more contemplative. It's a good color for bedrooms, causing the body to produce calming chemicals. Fashion consultants recommend wearing blue to job interviews because it symbolizes loyalty.

Green: Symbol of nature, it's the easiest color on the eye. It is a calming color and has a neutral effect on the human nervous system. The "green rooms" are designed for people who are waiting to appear on TV to sit and relax. Green is also a popular color in hospitals because it relaxes patients. Dark green is masculine, conservative and implies wealth.

Orange: Associated with warmth, contentment, fruitfulness and wholesomeness. It looks strong and generous and has a declassifying, broad appeal. It can be used to indicate that a product is suitable for everyone.

Purple: Represents royalty. It stands for luxury, wealth and sophistication. It is also the color of passion, romance and sensitivity. Some people like purple accents for its unusually posh and artistic look. However, because it is rare in nature, purple can appear artificial.

Brown: The color of earth and wood, it is solid and reliable and helps to create a neutral, comfortable and open atmosphere. It communicates credibility, solidity, strength and maturity. Certain shades of it can look worn and wistful.

Black: A color of extremes, it goes from conveying authority and power and wisdom, to despair and mourning, and then aloofness and evil. Priests wear it to symbolize their submission to God, but Hollywood often uses it to signal a villain. It is popular in fashion because it makes people appear thinner. It is also stylish and timeless, giving an air of sophistication.

White: Stands for purity, chastity and innocence. It also represents cleanliness. Doctors, nurses and lab technicians wear white to imply sterility. White reflects light and keeps us cool, so it is the color for summer clothing. In general, it creates a cool and refreshing feeling.

-- From pantone.com and about.com



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