[ MAUKA MAKAI ]
F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
Form-fitting corset tops will be everywhere this spring, whether discreetly peeking from behind a jacket, or flaunted in the open in evenings on the town. This one in denim ($245) is paired with a gypsy skirt ($805) featuring mesh overlay and multiple panels with streams of fabric that swish and sway. Both by D&G; courtesy of Neiman Marcus.
THE fountain of youth has yet to be discovered, and some of the alternatives seem downright dreary: Scalpel? Hormone replacement?
The fashion world offers an easy pick-me-up, and that is to think pink. But it's not the only color to bloom in store windows. Easter came early with shopping baskets full of seafoam green, blue-violet, sunny yellow and lemon-lime. But pink dominates as the new white, from the palest blush to most electric fuchsia, meant to be paired with anything from black to navy or royal blue to kelly green.
When was the last time you wore pink, anyway? In the bassinet? Even those who are sweet 16 will be made to feel like 6-year-olds in their first fairy princess costume, all bubblegum-hued and frothy enough to make a girl believe she might take flight. All that's missing are the gossamer wings and magic wand.
Change is in the air, and for women, spring 2004 is shaping up to be the prettiest season in recent memory. The gloom following the events of 9/11 left many of us in shock and suddenly shamed by the seeming frivolity of fashion.
But self-denial can last only so long, and designers seem to have anticipated a collective urgency to reclaim our smiles and optimism. Out of a gray, rainy and windy winter, women are ready to emerge like butterflies from their comforting cocoons of thick baggy yoga sweats and hoodies, into a garden of Lilli Pulitzer-style florals and graphic abstract prints a la Pucci or Roberto Cavalli, in wisps of dresses and diaphanous skirts.
But don't throw out those hoodies yet, because the athletic look will continue to move forward. You'll find these becoming more refined and modern now that top designers are the new sports authorities. For instance, you'll find the likes of Jil Sander turning out athletic shoes for Puma, while Joe Varvatos is aligned with Converse and Paul Smith does the job at Reebok.
F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
Some of the shoes of the season, from left, by Marc by Marc Jacobs ($325), in athletic mesh by Manolo Blahnik ($465) which was worn with the outfit on this page, candy colors by Prada ($340) and metallic and studded by Prada ($515), worn with the Roberto Cavalli dress on our cover.
Athletic looks also fill the windows at Armani Exchange, and at Chanel, just pick your sport. A black Chanel logo basketball can be made to accompany a basketball-inspired jersey. Ladies who want to get a workout before lunch can also pick up tennis, golf and surf gear from Chanel.
Here are the primary trends for spring:
The dress
The dress has been in the closet for a while as busy women on a budget have found separates to be more versatile, with pants infinitely more practical for the girl on the go. Is it even possible to go grocery shopping or chauffeur the kids around town in a dress? (Just try hoisting yourself into that SUV gracefully.) Cargo pants were especially handy for toting an increasing number of digital gadgets that no longer fit into a basic handbag.But underneath that practical facade is the little girl's voice demanding a time out for play. Don't we still, after all these years, want to have fun?
What could be more fun than a dress that moves, one that says "dance with me"? Today's dress is more feminine than ever, a more ornate version of the slip dress with tiers or cascades of impractical ruffles, and streamers of self-fabric with no reason to exist save to accentuate your graceful walk. The dress is often cut on the bias for a body-skimming flow, and on the higher end you'll find extra touches in the form of subtle bead, paillette or embroidery work.
There's a '40s aesthetic at work in a return to starlet glamour with plenty of shiny satin for day or night, and an architectural approach to fit with details such as micro-pleating running horizontally or vertically, and chevron patterns that shape bodices and waistlines.
From this nothing-to-hide fit, it's a small jump to the corset look. The rise of Internet porn and such men-will-be-boys magazines as Maxim and FHM no doubt contributed to the prevalence of grommets and lace-up details in everything from dresses to shoes to bracelets. And maybe, like Britney Spears, we're torn between playing the good girl or bad girl, so Dolce & Gabbana's corseted A-line dress is done up in delicate, innocent eyelet, while over at BCBG, a corset-style top ($126) in indigo cotton voile is accented at the shoulder straps by girly pink bows.
F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
In the Mediterranean Courtyard of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, Megan Morrison shows spring's sweet pastels, with a lemon-lime camisole ($188) peeking from a cropped jacket ($388) and simple ruffled mini skirt ($218), all from Marc by Marc Jacobs, courtesy of Neiman Marcus.
The skirt
For some the dress, as pretty as it is, remains too restrictive. The look can be achieved through separates so it's possible to hang onto old T-shirts and tank tops while pairing them with a flirty skirt -- the more color the better.The most conservative will find them in the palest blush and a respectable knee-length. But there's always going to be that 20-year-old who can get away with the sheerest mini in layers of soft pink chiffon as at Guess, where one such skirt has a long sash at the waistline that can be tied like a belt, the ends of the streamer left to float in the breeze as you walk, in case anyone fails to catch the hint that you are indeed a princess or nymph sent by the gods.
The spirit of transparency is also present in overlays of mesh over sturdier fabrics. These skirts over skirts add movement and another layer of interest to the garment. An open-front mesh "apron" at Chanel lends a flirty touch to an otherwise serious traditional tweed skirt.
At Neiman Marcus a Marc by Marc Jacobs skirt offers similar effect. This time, the mesh is sewn over a multipaneled skirt to put a rock 'n' roll gypsy swagger into your walk. Think of that '70s witchy woman Stevie Nicks, awhirl in multiple layers of cloth. Asymmetrical hems accentuate to the rebellious spirit.
You'll also see lots of pleating and gathering as skirts get fuller.
The jacket
Imagine the grade-school geek in high-water pants and a jacket shrunk down to match, at about three sizes too small.Jackets seem to have been sent into the washer and dryer at temperatures too hot to handle. They've been miniaturized all around to recapture schoolgirl innocence and playfulness.
Eyeing some of the shorter corduroy jackets ($68) at the Gap might have you wondering whether you've wandered into Baby Gap by mistake. Also available at the Gap are fitted denim jackets that have never looked sexier.
How small can they get? Over at Adidas, Yohji Yamamoto's boxy street-smart go-anywhere cropped jacket isn't much of a jacket at all, except you'll need to wear something under it to prevent baring your midriff. It's $250 at Neiman Marcus.
The Yamamoto top has a ribbed collar reminiscent of baseball jackets. DKNY has simply re-created the entire baseball jacket -- albeit with buttons instead of a zipper -- in peach-colored silk ($245). You might not notice the sporting influence when you see it paired with a matching silk skirt ($195).
The pants
Capris are warm-weather ready and are a good fit for all those corset tops, minijackets and platform espadrilles. But all signs indicate these, too, are evolving, going shorter and wider a la Bermuda.At T&C, Split Vegas capris sell for $58, while Bermuda-style jeans are about $50. Pair them with multiple tank tops that range from about $16 to $20.
If you want to keep wearing long pants, make sure they're cut skinny. Stay away from bulky pockets that will mar the clean, spare look you're aiming for. You should have secured a bigger purse by now for carrying all your gear.
In fact, anything bulky goes bye-bye, so waistbands lie taut against your -- work it now -- flat abs, with smooth hook-bar or button-tab closures, as with Gap's modern-tab city-cropped pants in stretch cotton twill ($49.50).
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HONOLULU ACADEMY OF ARTS
Beautiful setting for Impressionist
and modern artistryThe Honolulu Academy of Arts is the setting for this spring portfolio of garments from Neiman Marcus.
The museum will be the setting for a landmark exhibition from spring through summer of paintings by European and Japanese modernists in "Japan & Paris: Impressionism, Postimpressionism and the Modern Era," which opens April 8 and continues through June 6.
Advance ticket sales begin tomorrow for this spectacular exhibition of more than 50 Impressionist, Postimpressionist, Cubist and other modern masterpieces that will be shown only in Hawaii.
Special admission to the exhibition is set at $15 general and $10 for children 6 to 17. Children under 5 will be admitted free, but no strollers or backpacks will be permitted because of space limitations.
Tickets will be issued for a specific date and entry time, and are nonrefundable and nontransferable.
An automated hot line has been set up at 532-8719 for information, reservations and updates.
The museum is open 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays.
F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
Pucci's wedge sandals ($420) with wrap-around ankle ties put a little spring into Megan Morrison's step. She's also wearing a knit halter top ($295) tied with a silk scarf that adds movement to the look, and white capris ($240); both by Missoni and available at Neiman Marcus. The art work behind the Honolulu Academy of Arts Kinau Court is "Sakimori (Frontier Guardian)" by Masayuki Nagare.
F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
In the Honolulu Academy of Arts Italian Renaissance Gallery, the work of old master Francesco Granacci is contrasted with that of 21st century Italian Roberto Cavalli, whose tie-dye print dress sells for $1,030 at Neiman Marcus.
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NEIMAN MARCUS
Romancing the runway
Neiman Marcus has identified trends to suit a quartet of pretty women. Where do you fit in?
The Violet Femmes
Violet Femmes enjoy being girls and dress accordingly. The dress is their wardrobe staple, day and night, from sheath sleek to flounce full. Floral prints embellish every element of the Violet Femme's wardrobe. The motto this season is "No matter the rose, as long as it shows!"
The Ladies of Lingerie
The Ladies of Lingerie let their inner beauty shine ... on the outside! Intimate inspiration is everywhere, in slip dresses of shimmering silk charmeuse and satin worn layered under a jacket for day or on their own for cocktails.Victorian-style corsets and corset details add a shapely silhouette to suits, tops, dresses and gowns. Luxe lingerie leitmotifs also include lace-trimmed camisole tops, and fluttering handkerchief hems on tops and skirts.
The Social-Lights
Social-Lights love to travel and always fill their steamer trunks with updated classics. Topping the list is the updated trench coat for any weather.The classic resort staple white reigns, the better to show off that perfect -- and fake -- tan, the only kind that's healthy. Set it off with vibrant '60s-inspired tropical floral and graphic prints. Prints can be carried in the accessory of choice, the 36-inch square scarf from Prada or Hermes tied around the neck or on the handles of her bag.
For the sporty set, there are country club-worthy tennis sweaters and skirts, golf course-glam cropped pants and shrunken polo shirts, plus nautical navy and white and racing-stripe combinations of color.
F.L. MORRIS / FMORRIS@STARBULLETIN.COM
Mix-and-match Juicy Couture tanks ($42) and long-sleeved tops ($46) paired with Juicy Bermudas ($121). Prada heels: $340.
The Fete-Set
Paparazzi-possessed divas favor anything that goes bling, including rhinestones, sequins, crystals and beads.And forget the platinum and silver; the Fete-Set is digging out the gold, which looks great on red-carpet evenings. Even shoes and purses get the Midas touch.
Another glam signature is beaded fringe on the hems of dresses and gowns, the perfect detail when dancing the night away.
Things you'll want
1. A postcard-print scarf
2. Pink champagne
3. A skinny snakeskin belt
4. Corset tops
5. Cropped pants
6. A full skirt
7. A satin fedora
8. Hand-embroidered handkerchiefs
9. A rose garden
10. A pen pal
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MACY'S
Flirty and modern
At Macy's "flirty" is the buzzword of the season. Outfits are polished, but playful details allow women to show their personalities. The key trends are:
So Flirty
The polished styles of fall continue to be important, but clothing takes on a more playful mood. Influences of the 1950s and '60s are evident in fluid skirts, blouses, shaped jackets and asymmetrical hems. Details such as pretty necklines, bows, trims and embroidery add sweet elegance to any look. Fabrics are free-flowing with lots of movement in dresses and skirts. Pink is prominent and is supported by white and sugar-coated colors.
Pop-arazzi
When it comes to color, there are no boundaries. Vibrant popsicle shades add a jolt of excitement to any outfit.Delicious shades of fuchsia, green, orange and yellow are striking on halters, novelty T-shirts, shorts, capri pants and topper jackets. These shocking colors pop when mixed with basic white.
Must-have items
1. Toppers
2. Colorful sandals
3. Camisoles
4. Knee-length shorts
5. Skirts
6. Dresses
7. Shaped jackets
8. Halter necklines
9. Colorful handbags
10. Colorful framed sunglasses
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