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By The Glass Kevin Toyama |
The Spaniards
make a splashIf you haven't heard, the Spaniards are coming! From importer Eric Soloman comes a new custom cuvee created by the Castano family winery. The Castano, Monastrell 2002 ($11.99), is from a little-known region in southeast Spain, a somewhat arid region known as Yecla, near Alicante. Spectacular things are happening in this region, not yet known as a great place for grape growing.
This cuvee of 100 percent Monastrell grapes (aka mataro or mourvedre) is a soft, supple red with sweet oak, loads of currants, black raspberry and cranberry fruit. A hint of pepper, sage and graphite give the wine structure. Four thumbs up from the R. Field Wine Co. staff and a 90-point rating by Robert Parker don't hurt either.
Arriving on the coattails of Spanish values such as Castano's Monastrell is the Castell del Remei "Gotim Bru" 2001 ($10.99). This outstanding wine from the little-known Denominaciones de Origen of Costers del Segre is located in the Catalonian Province of Lleida. One of the region's most famous dishes, Fideus a L'estil de Lleida --Noodles Lleida Style -- originated with the Arabs who brought pasta to Spain during their rampage prior to the 14th century.
This outstanding value is a barrel-aged blend of 60 percent tempranillo, 20 percent merlot and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. A rich, full-bodied wine with a deep ruby-purple color, it offers intoxicating aromas of sweet, smoky cedar, cassis, sage, licorice and liquid minerals, with a very long finish.
Definitely a wine to cellar for a few years or to complement full-flavored cuisine -- an herb-crusted roast leg of lamb or peppercorn steak with a Madeira reduction. Better yet, slip it into a blind tasting with your fellow winos and see what they think. Wine guru Robert Parker awarded this one an 89-point rating and called it "formidably endowed." I just call it a real mouthful.
We're just scratching the surface of what Spain has to offer. In the coming months, other great values will be arriving that are sure to please. Salute!
Kevin Toyama is manager of the Beretania R. Field Food and Wine Co.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com