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By The Glass Roberto Viernes |
Seeking something new?
Return to French classicsWith the coming of the new year, many people are looking for the newest thing to hit the market. One of my tips is to take a new look at some classics.
Classics to me are wines with long-standing tradition and history. These are wines that have withstood the test of time, as well as fluctuations in taste, economy and fashion, and are still regarded as those that both connoisseur and amateur can appreciate and, most importantly, enjoy.
Probably the most important reason these styles have endured is because of their wonderful ability to pair with food.
I recently tried a couple of white wines from France's beautiful Loire Valley that were tremendously impressive as well as great values. The first is a classy blend of two of the most popular white grapes, sauvignon blanc (90 percent) and chardonnay. The 2001 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny ($12) has a textbook sauvignon blanc aroma of freshly cut grass, tons of citrus, with a touch of flowers and a mineral component that adds depth and complexity. On the palate it is dry, almost as light as feather and crisp, with a long aftertaste of lemon and lime. If you like wines that are refreshing and balanced, this is for you. It is a wonderful match for seafood, especially shellfish. Try it with freshly shucked oysters or scallops in a butter or cream sauce with a squeeze of lemon.
The 2001 Champalou Vouvray ($14), made with the chenin blanc grape, has a delightful aroma of melons, honey and beeswax. It is also dry, with a very rounded and expansive texture that allows the flavors of melons, pears and apples to coat your mouth. It is such a pretty wine that you almost want to use it as a perfume. Steamed scallops with a ginger vinaigrette work superbly with vouvray as do perfectly done lobster or sautéed shrimp with garlic and herbs.
If you're having a clambake, either of these whites is a must-have! My only caveat is NOT to serve these wines too cold or you'll lose their delicate perfumes and nuances. Chill in the fridge for about 35 minutes before serving.
One of the most impressive wines I've had in a long time from Southern France has been the 2001 Chateau St. Martin de la Garrigue, "Bronzinelle" ($15). It's a typical blend of syrah, grenache, carignane and mourvedre, grapes used across the region. This wine is packed with tons of dark-skinned fruits such as plum, blackberry, currants and wild raspberries, along with just a touch of heavenly lavender and cardamom. It is ripe and textured with enough structure for foods such as grilled leg or rack of lamb, and is perfect for hardy tomato-based stews. The best pairing is a perfectly done pepper steak grilled over kiawe wood -- wow!
Another little-known classic is a dessert wine, the 2001 Domaine de la Tour Vieilles Banyuls ($20/500ml). This magical, sweet red, made with grenache grapes, is a fortified wine, not as high in alcohol as port but made with the same technique. It smells like caramel and chocolate-dipped apples laced with hints of allspice and nuts; having enough sweetness to be called dessert but not overly cloying or sugary. The thought of this wine together with dark chocolate makes me want to run to Alan Wong's and order his signature Chocolate Crunch Bar right now! For the more adventurous, try this with seared foie gras. You will be amazed.
There are plenty of new things to try in the "classic" areas of wine. They are not household names, but they will certainly please the palate.
Roberto Viernes is wine educator for Southern Wine and Spirits.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com