Books for Cooks

Barbara Burke

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Vegan fare that will
satisfy the most ardent
carnivore

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Sophisticated and sensual, Eric Tucker's gourmet vegetarian fare will tempt even the most committed carnivore to give up meat, for at least one fine meal at a time.

"The Artful Vegan: Fresh Flavors from the Millennium Restaurant" By Eric Tucker (Ten Speed Press, 2003, $24.95, softcover)

This is Tucker's second book of recipes from the renowned Millennium Restaurant in San Francisco. What sets this recipe collection apart from many other vegan cookbooks are the many intriguing ingredients and flavor combinations. A half-teaspoon of green peppercorns here, a dash of umeboshi vinegar there, or a drizzle of truffle oil over the top make these dishes extraordinary.

Sample recipes include Exotic Mushroom Ceviche (appetizer), White Bean-Filled Phyllo Purse over Soft Garlic Polenta with Porcini-Zinfandel Sauce, Broccoli Rabe and Grilled Pear (entrée), and Cardamom-Persimmon Flan with Dried Fruit Compote (dessert).

You will intensify the flavor of the spices in the following soup recipe by toasting them in a dry skillet over high heat for about a minute.

Chilled Tomatillo -Avocado -Cucumber Soup with Saffron -Lime Ice

1/2 yellow onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 jalapeño chili
3 ripe avocados, peeled and pitted
8 tomatillos, peeled
1 cucumber, halved lengthwise and seeded
1/2 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon dried oregano, toasted
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Juice of 1 lime
2 teaspoons light miso
3 cups water
Salt
Cayenne pepper (optional)
1/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted and very coarsely crushed, for garnish

>> Saffron-Lime Ice:
Juice of 2 limes
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, soaked in 1/4 cup warm water for 20 minutes
1 teaspoon Hungarian or Spanish paprika, toasted
1/2 cup water
1/3 teaspoon salt

To make ice: Mix ingredients in a bowl and pour into a 2-inch-deep pan. Freeze 3 to 4 hours, until frozen solid.

To make soup: Heat a large nonstick sauté pan over high heat. Add onions, garlic, and jalapeño. Dry-toast, stirring frequently, 7 to 10 minutes, until half the onions, garlic and jalapeno are charred. Remove from pan and cool to room temperature. Peel and seed jalapeño.

Place avocado in a bowl with the cooled onion, garlic and jalapeño. Add tomatillos, cucumber, cilantro, oregano, nutmeg, black pepper, lime juice, miso and water. In a blender, or using a handheld immersion blender, blend ingredients in batches until smooth. Add salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Refrigerate 2 hours, or until well-chilled.

To serve: Ladle soup into 6 martini glasses. Sprinkle toasted almonds over top. Scrape saffron ice crystals off pan with fork; place 2 teaspoons on each serving. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Approximate nutritional information per serving: 210 calories, 15 g total fat, 6 mg cholesterol, 120 mg sodium, 5 g protein, 16 g carbohydrate (saturated fat values not available)

Rating Scale: Best in its class / Highly recommended / Recommended / Not recommended

Barbara Burke is a Hawaii-Pacific University instructor who teaches and writes about food and nutrition. Contact her at the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail her at: features@starbulletin.com