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By The Glass Lyle Fujioka |
Pinot lovers look
toward CaliforniaFor many, the center of the wine universe lies firmly within the tiny confines of Burgundy, France, where the pinot noir grape is transformed into the beautifully aromatic and terroir-laden wines that have made the region famous. Winemakers the world over, smitten with the balance and finesse of these wines, work tirelessly in an effort to capture the romance of Burgundy.
This has been as elusive for New World winemakers as obtaining the Holy Grail. While techniques of growing and vinifying this notoriously fickle varietal can be learned, Burgundy, after all is Burgundy. Its unique soil and climate can never be reproduced.
The challenge for our domestic winemakers has been to locate growing regions that at best parallel Burgundy's.
André Tchelistcheff, the legendary "Father of California Wine," first identified Carneros, then later the cooler climate of Sonoma's coastal region as pinot noir's ideal California home. Oregon emerged as the new hotbed of pinot noir during the late '80s and '90s. Very good wine has been produced in these areas, but at great effort and cost. It is difficult to expect consumers to invest in these wines when prices have met or exceeded those of truly great Burgundy.
The heartless road that pinot noir lovers have traveled to find affordable wines that simply taste good has been desolate. That is, until now. The emergence of California's Central Coast pinot noir producers will pump new life into these weary travelers.
In particular, our staff has fallen in love with wines from the Santa Maria Valley. As pinot noir is so sensitive to climactic conditions, the ideal growing conditions of 2001 and 2002 have produced wines of great fruit purity, concentration and terroir entering the market. The absolute best part is most of these wines are retailing for less than $25. Our favorites.
Rex Goliath Central Coast Pinot Noir 2001 ($8.95): A truly amazing value! Big, juicy spicy cherry and blackberry.
Edna Valley Paragon Pinot Noir 2002 ($14.95): Substantive smoky black cherry, mineral and hints of vanilla. The 2001 was unreal; this 2002 is a smash hit!
Morgan Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2001 ($16.95): Soft and luscious juicy cherry and strawberry are framed by enticing spicy hints.
Foxen Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2001 ($21): Enticing mango, cherry, blackberry and mineral dance across your palate with a long, long finish.
Melville Pinot Noir 2002 ($23): Dark plum, raspberry and cherry, with notes of sandalwood, shine in this impressive pinot noir.
Lyle Fujioka owns Fujioka's Wine Merchants.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com