Books for Cooks

Barbara Burke

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Create an eclectic,
top-tier menu

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Here's a chance to try out 100 recipes from 25 cookbooks rated best in their class by the editors of Food & Wine magazine.

As in past annuals of "Best of the Best," recipes appear as they were first published. Each chapter features a different cookbook. But new in this year's edition are short biographies of the authors, question-and-answer interviews and dozens of cooking tips from the Food & Wine test kitchen.

"Best of the Best, Vol. 6" By the editors of Food & Wine magazine (American Express, 2003, $29.95, hardcover)

You'll find crab cakes from Pam Anderson, green mango salad with shrimp and avocado by Alice Waters, dry-rubbed rib eye steak from Mario Batali, spicy tuna a la Ken Hom and pineapple flan (three ingredients, of course) by Rozanne Gold.

Cookbooks range in scope from Cheryl and Bill Jamison's "A Real American Breakfast" to "The Complete Vegetarian Cookbook" by Charmaine Solomon to "Live, Love, Eat!" by Wolfgang Puck.

"Best of the Best" is printed on glossy paper and has about two dozen full-page and numerous smaller full-color photos. For ease of use, the recipes are listed by cookbook as well as by course.

Few of the chapters offer enough variety around which to plan an entire meal, but you can create an interesting and eclectic menu by selecting dishes from the various cookbooks.

The following recipe is from "1,000 Indian Recipes," by Neelam Batra. This entree is traditionally made with a whole chicken, but Batra prefers cut-up pieces because they are easier to cook and eat.

Pan-Cooked Chili-Chicken Thighs

(Bhuna Mirchi Murgh)

2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
5 to 7 dried red chili peppers, such as chili de arbol, with stems
2 (1-inch) pieces peeled fresh ginger, cut into thin matchsticks
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 large clove fresh garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon ground paprika
2 to 2 1/2 pounds skinless chicken thighs, cut in half through the bone
1 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, including soft stems
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

Heat oils together in a large, nonstick pan over medium heat and cook red chili peppers and ginger, stirring, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Add onions and cook until well browned, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, paprika and chicken, and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes.

Add cilantro, vinegar, water, salt and black pepper. Cook over high heat until it comes to a boil and then over medium heat until chicken pieces are tender and most of the liquid has evaporated and the oil separates to the sides, about 20 minutes.

Transfer to a serving plate and serve hot. Serves 4 to 6.

Approximate nutritional information per serving (6 servings per recipe): 200 calories, 10 g total fat, 2 g saturated fat, 90 mg cholesterol, 23 g protein, 5 g carbohydrate, 490 mg sodium.

Rating Scale: Best in its class / Highly recommended / Recommended / Not recommended

Barbara Burke is a Hawaii-Pacific University instructor who teaches and writes about food and nutrition. Contact her at the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail her at: features@starbulletin.com