Hawaii’s
Back yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Some isle humpbacks
enjoy people-watchingThis is the busiest time of year for the Maui-based Pacific Whale Foundation -- not because of the holidays, but because it marks the return of the humpbacks, who've lived the past six months 3,500 miles north in Alaskan waters. Come winter, the whales migrate to warm Hawaii to breed and give birth, and here they'll stay until May to the delight not only of marine researchers, but of thousands of eager whale watchers.
On a whale-watching cruise last year aboard PWF's Ocean Explorer, marine education specialist Carri Bullock recalls a curious subadult whale that approached the boat. "Everyone on board ran to that side of the boat to watch it," Bullock says. "The whale poked its head up and looked back and forth at the passengers along the railing as though it was studying them. It then swam under the boat to the other side. All of the passengers ran to that side of the boat. The whale poked its head up and again looked back and forth at everyone.
"It repeated this behavior for 45 minutes, swimming from one side of the boat to the other, looking at the passengers. It was clear that he was people watching as much as we were whale watching!"
In light of a Christmas Day mishap on an Oahu whale-watching cruise in which a 3-year-old boy was killed -- officials are still investigating what happened -- passengers should take precautions against leaning over rails or engaging in other risky behavior.
COURTESY OF PACIFIC WHALE FOUNDATION
A humpback executes a breach with a twist off the coast of Maui.
The nonprofit PWF is Hawaii's oldest and largest marine research, education and conservation organization. During the whale season's peak in February, it offers up to 20 two-hour whale-watching expeditions per day. The Auau Channel, between West Maui and Lanai, where PWF runs its boats, is the best place in Hawaii to spot the magnificent humpbacks.
"During the winter, whale sightings are a common occurrence on land and at sea," says Amy Hellrung, one of PWF's research associates. "I've seen many different reactions from people the first time they see whales; (they) laugh, cry, scream or pray."
Apparently, there is no "best" time to whale watch; humpbacks appear to be active throughout the day. More than time of day, the ability to see whales depends on how calm the ocean is and the amount of glare from the sun.
To protect the humpbacks, which are an endangered species, all cruise companies observe a federal "100-yard minimum" law, which states that whales within 100 yards cannot be approached by any means, including boat, kayak, sailboard or swimming. But the humpbacks can venture as close to whale watchers as they wish.
On some occasions, called "muggings," a whale may come right alongside a boat. When this happens, the captain can't move the boat until it swims beyond the 100-yard boundary. Anne Rillero, PWF's director of marketing and public relations, recalls an instance last year when one of their boats couldn't move for two hours because of a friendly whale that lingered nearby.
COURTESY OF PACIFIC WHALE FOUNDATION
Researchers from the Pacific Whale Foundation say there's no predicting how people will react to seeing a whale.
IN THE EARLY 1980s, PWF became the first organization on Maui to offer educational whale-watching cruises to the public. The idea caught on, and many other boat companies jumped on the bandwagon. PWF remains the leader among them, offering:
>> A fleet of six ultrasmooth power catamarans equipped with hydrophones, sensitive microphones that are lowered into the water so passengers can listen to the humpbacks' haunting songs.Says Rillero, "As the largest eco-tour operator on Maui, Pacific Whale Foundation doesn't view itself as a 'boat business.' Instead, the staff views the company's vessels as floating classrooms. We see every cruise as an opportunity to promote eco-friendly interactions with the ocean and to model higher environmental standards for the commercial boating world.">> Narration by certified marine naturalists. All of PWF's boat staff (with the exception of captains and pursers) hold degrees in marine biology, environmental science or related fields, and are CPR, first-aid and Red Cross lifeguard certified.
>> Opportunities to participate in whale research. PWF uses a GPS and laser-range finders on all its vessels to track the humpbacks, and keeps detailed records of all cetacean sightings.
>> A free junior naturalist program for children and a free poster and color guide, "Watching Hawaii's Humpback Whales," for each party.
COURTESY OF PACIFIC WHALE FOUNDATION
PWF keeps track of whales through GPS and laser-range finders on its vessels. Young whale watchers can participate in a free junior naturalist program.
* * *
Pacific Whale Foundation's
Place: Meet at Lahaina Harbor, Slip 10, 30 minutes before your tour is scheduled to depart.
whale-watching cruisesTimes: 7, 8, 9:15, 10:30 and 11:30 a.m. and 1, 1:45, 4 and 5 p.m. daily. Daily cruises also leave from Maalaea Harbor; call for more information.
Phone: 808-249-8811 on Maui or 800-942-5311 from the other islands. Reservations are required.
Prices: $26.95 for adults, $15 for children 7 to 12. Kids 6 and younger ride free when accompanied by a paying adult. Ask about discounted cruises with a $19.95 adult rate. AARP members 55 and older receive a 10 percent discount on cruises. The kamaaina rate is $12 for adults, $10 for children. All profits support PWF education, conservation and research projects. PWF's guarantee is "See whales or you go again free."
E-mail: reservation@pacificwhale.org
Web site: www.pacificwhale.org
Whale dates
Here's a partial list of special activities the Pacific Whale Foundation has planned through January. For a complete schedule of events, which run through May, call PWF at the phone numbers listed in the accompanying fact box.Daily: Free Whale Information Station at McGregor Point Lookout on Route 30, Honoapiilani Highway, between Maalaea and Lahaina. View whale artifacts and get tips on locating whales, information about recent whale activity and answers to your questions from naturalists.
Wednesday: Meet at Haycraft Park in Maalaea for a presentation, "Nowhere Else on Earth," which spotlights plants and animals found nowhere else but Hawaii.
Daily, starting next Friday: Free "Why Whales Do That" multimedia presentation at PWF's new 4,400-square-foot Ocean Science Discovery Center overlooking Maalaea Harbor.
Jan. 7, 14, 21 and 28: Learn about Hawaii's unique marine environment while participating in a 45-minute coastal walk with a marine educator from the Ocean Science Discovery Center.
Jan. 7 and 21: Meet at Haycraft Park, Maalaea, for a presentation, "Hawaiians and the Sea," which examines the culture of pre-contact and ancient Hawaii. This program also is scheduled at Sugar Beach in Kihei on Jan. 14 and 28.
Jan. 8: Explore the tide pools of Keawakapu Beach in South Kihei with a guide from the Ocean Science Discovery Center.
Jan. 9: PWF's marine education team points out nocturnal tide-pool species and their intriguing nighttime behaviors by the light of the full moon.
Jan. 14, 21 and 28: "Sea Wees," a program of ocean "edventure" for children 2 to 5. Monthly themes are introduced through music, movement and sensory exploration.
Jan. 18: Talks at Sea, a whale-watching cruise combined with a presentation at sea by PWF's staff. The topic will be "Hawaiians and the Sea," featuring Hawaiian cultural specialists Kaau Abraham and Merrill Kaufman, who will explain how the Hawaiians named, utilized and protected sea animals.
Jan. 31: At the Great Whale Count, join whale researchers and other volunteers to count whales seen from Maui's shorelines and lookout points. PWF provides training and tools.
See the Columnists section for some past articles.
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.
