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The Weekly Eater Nadine Kam |
Chewing on the
isle dining scene
throughout the year
In 2003, the biggest news on the dining front was that Dr. Atkins mania moved out of the realm of the personal diet into public venues, though overly simplified into a palatable shorthand that translated as "meat good, never mind everything else." So some smirked when L&L introduced its meat saturated Atkins plate and KFC touted its fried chicken as fare for a healthy diet followed by TGIFridays offering of a Atkins menu.
CORRECTION
Tuesday, Dec. 30, 2003>> Char Hung Sut remains open for business, as it has been since 1946. Sunday's "Weekly Eater" column on Page G3 reported that it had closed.
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin strives to make its news report fair and accurate. If you have a question or comment about news coverage, call Editor Frank Bridgewater at 529-4791 or email him at fbridgewater@starbulletin.com.Recent news of Mad Cow Disease discovered on a Seattle feed lot may put a damper on beef consumption temporarily, but American consumers have never been good about sacrificing today's pleasure for tomorrow's well-being, so I'd look for the Atkins action to keep going strong in 2004.
If some have trouble getting enough fruit into their diets, they had no problem drinking it. Jamba Juice addiction is a real thing, with many who can't get through the day without a dose of antioxidant blueberry, orange and strawberry blends. Again with the pleasure thing, they conveniently overlook the high sugar and calorie content that negate much of the drinks' benefits. And although the notion of adding healthful "boosts" to smoothies has been around for awhile, look for a bigger neutraceutical push in 2004, as juicers get specific in touting drinks as tonics targeting specific problems. Look for fruit and veggie combos promising healthy skin, better concentration, longevity and immunity to the common cold. Neutra diets can't be too far behind as restaurateurs find ways to apply that old "apple a day" adage to menu planning.
RICHARD WALKER / RWALKER@STARBULLETIN.COM
Mike Graves pulls out all the stops as bartender for Jackie's Kitchen.
We were sad to see Char Hung Sut go, as well as Mongolian Bar-B-Q, whose owners decided to close the business after 23 years, and Big-Way Burgers in Wahiawa is gone after 42 years of business. In Kailua, Jaron's was replaced by Boardriders Bar & Grill. Closer to town, Strawberry Connection closed in April and Ward Warehouse fixture Scoozee's is also gone.
As always, there were newcomers vying to fill those spots in diners' hearts. One even had a familiar name as The Bistro in Century Center tried to channel the spirit of the original, complete with candlelight ambiance, tuxedoed waiters and classic dishes such as duck a l'orange and brandy flambéed steak Diane.
Marbella brought a taste of the Mediterranean to the site of the former Tai-Pan Restaurant, and in September Youme.n brought a rainbow of color to Waikiki thanks to resident chef/artist Kiyoshi, who serves up fun pop-Japanese fare.
And Kahala Mandarin Oriental did what came naturally by setting up Cabanas beachfront for open-air dining, family style, on simple grilled steaks and whole fish. It doesn't get any more local than that.
Openings were sparse throughout the year, but as always, we can count on a mad rush at the end of the year as restaurateurs attempt to tap into the festive season. You'd think some would get battered duking it out for customers, but such was not the case with The Cheesecake Factory, where diners could get bloodied fighting for just one of its 600 seats. The restaurant continues to be packed, such that you may have to bring a snack to endure waits of 1-1/2 to 2 hours. There's just something about cheesecake that people can't resist, although the restaurant -- with its vast menu of some 200 items -- does go out of its way to offer something for everyone.
Alas, I have but one opu and many new restaurants to get to in due time. For now, you'll have to be the guinea pigs. I'm sure you'll have no trouble dining at:
Jackie's Kitchen: Bartenders show off their show-business flair as appropriate for a restaurant whose namesake is actor Jackie Chan. An energetic and enthusiastic staff serve such contemporary Chinese-inspired appetizers as hoisin babyback ribs ($9.95), steamed chicken and shiitake shumai ($5.95), and specialties of tea-smoked duck ($16.25) and lemongrass-crusted fish ($16.95).
For your entertainment, five giant plasma screens will be showing movie clips and outtakes from Chan's films. The restaurant is on the third level of Ala Moana Center, near California Pizza Kitchen and the Mai Tai Bar. Call 943-CHAN (2426).
Kona Brewing Company: The brew moves its successful formula from Kailua-Kona on the Big Island to Koko Marina Shopping Center, where it overlooks the water. The Big Island is reflected in the decor, including 'ohia posts and koa furnishings. Look for a menu of gourmet pizzas and pupu, plus dozens of specialty beers including one limited edition concocted to celebrate this opening -- a Koko Loco Coconut Milk Stout made with 100 percent pure coconut milk for a dark brew with a smooth, creamy, slightly sweet and nutty flavor. Call 394-KONA (5662).
Panya: The bakery has grown into a mini Bistro, opening at Ala Moana Center, next door to the GAP, on the mall level across from the parking structure. Look for a short list of entrees for $12 or less, including curries, shrimp scampi, oxtail stew and a whole slew of noodle and salad dishes, served in retro-style pop-art surroundings. Oh yeah, there is coffee and the awesomely light pastries that won them initial acclaim.
Bon appetit in 2004!
See some past restaurant reviews in the Columnists section.
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
