The Weekly Eater Nadine Kam

After 20 years, Auntie Pasto’s
busts out the adult meals

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LAST week, we revisited the venerable Buzz's Original Steak House in Kailua, which, though newly remodeled, hasn't changed much in its 42-year history. Auntie Pasto's seemed to be running full steam ahead on the same track, but on its 20th anniversary, change is in the air.

Hard to believe, but I've grown up along with the restaurant. Back in 1983 I was just out of college, so Auntie Pasto's inexpensive but filling pastas were just perfect as an occasional splurge on an entry-level salary of a $1,000 a month, of which $400 went toward rent, $300 went toward a car payment and the balance went toward taxes. How did I eat? Oh yeah, like everybody else, the part-time sales job from 6 to 11 p.m.

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DENNIS ODA / DODA@STARBULLETIN.COM At Auntie Pasto's, Brad Barrett serves up orders of Kajiki Putanesca, center, Grilled Calamari, left, and Chicken Vesuvio.

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It wasn't easy, but I survived, and miraculously -- because so many more college graduates survive than do new restaurants -- so did Auntie Pasto's, which single-handedly brought Italian cooking to the masses. Before then, our options were to head to Waikiki for pricey Italian fare, down homemade baked spaghetti, or eat Spaghetti-O's out of a can. Seriously. There was no "pasta" before Auntie Pasto's.

Back then Auntie Pasto's had red-checked tablecloths -- which have stayed (not the originals) -- and Chianti bottles with slender candles plunked into them, straight out of "Lady and the Tramp." And those who could not afford to frequent restaurants with wine lists could B.Y.O.B. it.

The restaurant's entire dinner menu could fit on a "chalkboard" diners could peruse for the day's antipasti, salads and pastas. In the pre-Atkins era, this was enough to bring long lines any night of the week. A real eclectic bunch this, from young punks in dreadlocks and rock Ts to tutus in muumuus with their entourage of kin.

But now that the doctor's carb-conscious philosophy has been mainstreamed, there's noticeably more meat on the Auntie Pasto's menu, from mild herbed lemon chicken ($13.95) served with a helping of nutritious, if somewhat bitter brocollini, and a cheesy risotto bearing fine threads of saffron (you can't taste it through the cheese) to New York steak laden with green peppercorns ($15.95).

Start with antipasti of about a dozen small clams and mussels ($8.95) in a garlic, butter, herb and wine sauce. This is sized to avoid spoiling your appetite for the main courses. Butter also drenches a fire-roasted artichoke ($7.50) generously coated with Parmesan.

A Caesar salad ($4.50/$7.25) is coated in an unremarkable dressing, but it helps to have that with shrimp ($11.25) lightly dusted in Cajun spices and perfectly grilled.

If you want to skip the antipasti, you won't go hungry until entrees arrive because diners are presented with bread and a helping of sliced carrots, celery and peppers.

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COURTESY OF AUNTIE PASTO'S The staff recently celebrated the restaurant's 20th anniversary. Owner Ed Wary is on the right, wearing a lei.

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IT'S TOUGHER to order these days because of the many options, from pizza ($8.95 to $10.95) to chicken Vesuvio ($13.95).

Traditional sorts may prefer the tried-and-true lasagna roll ($8.95) with your choice of hamburger or mushrooms, enveloped in the pasta with a mix of ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, basil and a mild tomato sauce. Some are content with the sauce only.

Pastas include spaghetti with meatballs ($7.95) to your basic carbonara ($8.95) to the works, a combination of chicken, peppers and mushrooms ($8.50).

On the higher end, there is fresh fish that can be pan roasted Mediterranean style with olives, herbs and lemon butter, which is usually only as good as the catch of the day. Opah, yes! Kajiki, pass.

They also serve a veal piccata or marsala ($14.50), the latter low on the marsala, with a sauce that tastes more like your basic marinara, with the addition of large slices of onions and mushrooms.

For dessert, there are standards of tiramisu and spumoni pie triple-layered with chocolate, cherry and pistachio ice cream. Nice, if you can make the room.

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Auntie Pasto's 1099 S. Beretania St. / 523-8855 Food Service Ambience Value Hours: 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. weekdays, dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays, and 4 to 11 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays Cost: About $7 per person for lunch; $20 to $35 for two for dinner without drinks

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See some past restaurant reviews in the Columnists section.

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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

	excellent;
	very good, exceeds expectations;
	average;
	below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com

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