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The Weekly Eater Nadine Kam |
Buzz comes naturally to
landmark Kailua restaurantMUST be nice to be in Buzz's position. While other restaurants clamor for buzz, Buzz's simply has it -- even after 42 years in business. How many other companies can say that?
In the battle for consumers hearts and opus, other restaurants hawk name chefs, continuously update menus, vie for the best-lookin' wait staff in town, and advertise via coupons two-for-one entrees or free appetizers. Buzz's does none of this, simply relying on word-of-mouth to bring in a crowd.
I guess it works because word-of-mouth is exactly how I found out from my friendly neighborhood esthetician how the restaurant closed last month for renovations, and how it's now reopened -- just in time for the holidays.
Before renovations, I would often look up into the wooden rafters, thinking "must be nice ... for termites."
Well, the restaurant now has a new roof, and to avoid tampering with a successful formula, a new deck follows the footprint of the old, so the lay of the place is about the same. The deck is a skosh larger for a more spacious feel, and a wall that once separated it from the waiting area has been opened, allowing diners to walk straight to their table, rather than detouring left and right inside the restaurant.
And the menus printed on the familiar wooden boards have not changed. Got steak? Check. Got fish? Check. Got salad bar? Check. Basic, basic, basic.
Over the years, I've heard criticism that the restaurant has never made an attempt to keep up with dining trends. Yet, it also never fails to draw a crowd, as there will always be an audience for the simplicity of steak or fish, grilled or sauteed with no fuss, fanfare or funny-kine sauce.
RONEN ZILBERMAN / RZILBERMAN@STARBULLETIN.COM
Diners get ready to enjoy a meal on the new deck at Buzz's in Kailua.
The frills are reserved for the salad bar, pumped up with spinach, beets, seaweed salad, tofu and avocado slices, in addition to the usual tossed greens, tomato wedges, sprouts, Parmesan, crumbled egg, bacon bits and other favorites. Dieters who choose carefully may find this salad bar a dream come true, both nourishing and satisfying, at $8.95 a la carte, or free with your entree, whether you choose the likes of a 13-ounce prime rib for $21.95 or 10-ounce top sirloin, cooked to a perfect medium rare, at $17.95.
Extras can add up and can be unnecessary. The entree and salad bar are plenty filling. Unless you're wealthy, for instance, I don't recommend a simple helping of butter sliced sauteed mushrooms for $4.95. Robbery! It would be nicer if they offered to top your steak with mushrooms for $2. Then it might be understood how manini the portion is.
While area locals and their mainland visitors are most often found dining here by night, newbies should consider a day trip combined with a trek to Kailua Beach Park across the street to get the full Buzz's experience.
They make a killer burger at $7.95, accompanied by soup of the day or their famous tempura fries, and fish-topped Caesar for $11.95.
Most importantly, don't forget to bring your money because after 42 years, they also absolutely DO NOT accept credit cards.
What other restaurant, aside from the dinkiest little mom-and-pop, could get away with that?
413 Kawailoa Road / 261-4661 Buzz's Original Steak House
Hours: Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. daily
Food 
Service Ambience Value Cost: Lunch about $10 per person; dinner about $40 to $60 for two without drinks
See some past restaurant reviews in the Columnists section.
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
excellent; very good, exceeds expectations; average; below average.
