Books for Cooks

Barbara Burke

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Explore the inner world
where recipes are made

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Although we sometimes see a television chef take a handful of surprise ingredients and create a culinary masterpiece in 20 minutes or less, the truth is that most recipes go through multiple tests and revisions before going public.

Christopher Kimball, author of "The Kitchen Detective," takes you behind the scenes of his recipe-development process. Here, you'll learn what works, what doesn't and why.

"The Kitchen Detective" by Christopher Kimball (America's Test Kitchen, 2003, hardcover, $24.95)

Unlike other books that go into great depth about the chemistry of cooking, Kimball's explanations are simple and easy to understand. His narrative is conversational and witty, and not overly scientific.

In regard to searing meat to seal in the juices, Kimball writes, "Forget it. Searing does nothing more than add flavor -- it doesn't seal in anything. Meat dries out because it starts to lose liquid at temperatures above 110 degrees. The higher the internal temperature, the drier the meat, and searing isn't going to slow down this process. Beef cooked to 160 degrees will be dry no matter how much searing you do."

It is also a book full of opinions and odd facts. Did you know that Italian olive oil frequently contains a blend of olive oils from various countries, including Spain, Greece and Tunisia? According to Kimball, this does not necessarily imply a lower quality, merely a marketing ploy. But it's something to remember the next time you consider paying more for Italian olive oil.

"The Kitchen Detective" offers 150 reasonably foolproof recipes, from soups to desserts. Black-and-white photos are scattered sparsely throughout the nearly 300 pages. This is not a fancy cookbook. It's clear that Kimball's objective is to educate home cooks.

The following recipe is a 2-for-1. You get a recipe for homemade chicken stock (just in time for flu season), as well as a flavorful and colorful vegetable soup. Kimball tested more than a dozen vegetables in different combinations before coming up with this "really good" version.

Really Good Vegetable Soup

>> Stock:
1 (3 1/2- to 4-pound) chicken or 8 chicken thighs
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium leek, coarsely chopped and rinsed
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
1 ripe tomato, quartered, optional
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
8 black peppercorns

>> Soup:
2 medium red potatoes, cut into 3/4-inch chunks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 medium leeks, white and light-green part only, halved lengthwise, cut into
1/2-inch slices, and rinsed well
2 medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup frozen peas
2 cups baby spinach
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

For the stock: Cut chicken into 9 pieces (legs, thighs, breast halves, wings, and the backbone) or purchase chicken pieces at the supermarket. Remove and discard skin from thighs and breasts and cut away any large pieces of fat. If using thighs, skin and remove excess fat.

Add all the ingredients to a large pot or Dutch oven along with 2 quarts cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook with the cover ajar for 40 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain a simmer.

Strain stock through a triple layer of cheesecloth. Reserve chicken for another use.

Use stock immediately or, even better, chill overnight and remove the layer of fat that forms on the surface.

For the soup: Bring stock to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add potatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt; simmer 5 minutes. Add leeks and carrots and simmer 5 minutes more, or until vegetables are tender. Add peas, spinach and parsley and cook for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately. Serves 6.

Nutritional information will vary according to chicken parts used, how well the cook skins the chicken and skims the broth, and the amount of salt used.

Rating Scale: Best in its class / Highly recommended / Recommended / Not recommended

Barbara Burke is a Hawaii-Pacific University instructor who teaches and writes about food and nutrition. Contact her at the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 7 Waterfront Plaza, Suite 210, Honolulu 96813; or e-mail her at: features@starbulletin.com