Nutmeg

As we head into the holidays certain spices, such as cinnamon, ground ginger, cloves, mace and nutmeg, become more prominent. The later spices, mace and nutmeg, are derived from the seed of a tropical evergreen.

The basics: Nutmeg is the dried seed of a very long-lived tree native to the Moluccas, part of the Spice Islands in Indonesia. It has been cultivated for at least 1,000 years and is grown commercially throughout Indonesia.

Nutmeg is also being grown on the Big Island by the Wailea Agricultural Group. Although still an experimental crop in Hawaii, the nutmeg tree does well in Hawaii's tropical climate, Lesley Hill of the Wailea Agricultural Group says. She is confident that the fruit will flourish.

The fruit of the nutmeg tree resembles an apricot or plum and is used to make a tart jelly. When it matures, the fruit splits in half, revealing a seed covered by a red membrane. This membrane is removed to make mace.

The seed is then dried for a couple of months until the inner nut rattles. The shell is removed to reveal the precious nutmeg spice, an egg-shaped seed that finely ground or sold whole to be freshly grated. Nutmeg has a spicy-sweet flavor and aroma that marries well with other holiday spices.

Selecting: Nutmeg is sold ground or whole. Like many spices, nutmeg begins to loose flavor and aroma after it is ground. Freshly grated nutmeg is preferred when possible.

Storing: Ground or whole nutmeg should be kept tightly sealed in a cool, dark area. Whole nutmeg should also be wrapped tightly in plastic to preserve the essential oils.

Use: One whole nutmeg yields 2 to 3 teaspoons of ground spice. Nutmeg is used in both savory and sweet dishes, from pastas and curries to eggnog and custards. Potato, spinach and squash side dishes often use a touch of nutmeg for added flavor. Add nutmeg toward the end of the cooking process to preserve flavor.

Where to buy: Ground nutmeg is available in most supermarket spice sections. Whole nutmeg can be found at specialty food stores, or purchase Hawaii-grown nutmeg from the Wailea Agricultural Group booth on Saturday at Kapiolani Community College's Saturday Farmers' Market.

Prices range from $5 to $7 for a 2-ounce bottle of ground nutmeg and $8 to $10 for about the same amount of whole nutmeg.

Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com

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