Santol

At first glance this fruit resembles a type of citrus, perhaps a tangerine or orange, but santol is an exotic fruit that may not appeal to everyone.

The basics: Santol is the fruit of a large tropical tree that is believed to have originated in Cambodia, Laos and Malaysia. It is now grown commercially throughout Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines.

There are two varieties: red and yellow. Red santol is very sour, while yellow has a pleasant, slightly juicy, sweet-sour flavor. The fruit is similar in size and shape to a tangerine. When ripe, it turns deep yellow and remains somewhat hard to the touch. The jelly-like pulp is translucent white, surrounding four or five large seeds.

The entire fruit, except the seeds, is edible. The very astringent root of the santol tree is used to treat stomach ailments and diarrhea.

Selecting: Look for yellow-orange fruit with smooth, even skin. The fruit is harvested ripe, so there is no need to ripen after purchase. Watch out for soft spots and fruit that is overripe. Some brown spots are natural.

Storing: Keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Use: Santol is best eaten as is. Cut the fruit in half crosswise and pull it apart. The seeds are hard to cut through, so you will need to slice halfway into the rind and twist the fruit apart to reveal the pulp.

It's best just to pull off the seeds and suck the flesh off. Even then, some of the pulp will not come off the seed. The rind is edible, but sour.

Santol is popular in jams and marmalades in the Philippines. In India it is eaten with a variety of spices and in Malaysia it is a popular candied fruit.

Where to buy: Santol can be found in Chinatown and should be available sporadically through October, priced at about $2.50 a pound.

Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com

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