[ COVER STORY ]
Real story lives
in between lines
of ‘Pipe Dreams’
Pro surfer Kelly Slater sits in that rare sports strata with the likes of Tiger Woods, Michael Jordan, and Barry Bonds. He's a singular dominant champion with an unprecedented six world surfing titles.
But 31 years old is young to pen an autobiography, even when you've been surfing professionally for nearly 20 of those years. Still, Slater believes he has tales to tell: Big waves, bad wipeouts, competitions, travel problems, surf groupies, friends' deaths, relationships gone sour, unplanned parenthood.
"Pipe Dreams: A Surfers Journey,"
by Kelly Slater
(Regan books, 352 pages,
hardcover, $24.95)
"Pipe Dreams" is more Slater's surfography. The real story is in reading between the lines in this novice tome by Slater, ghost written by Jason Borte.
The 14-chapter book starts with Slater's humble Coco Beach, Fla., beginnings in a dysfunctional family that included his two brothers, Sean and Stephen, and an alcoholic father. Slater's depiction of his difficult family life -- he remains devoted to his mother -- is the most honest, heart-wrenching section.
Photos of the smiling young Slater are haunting in the backdrop of the difficult life at home. The child's terror from his parent's constant fighting and yelling is told matter-of-factly.
The unfolding stories are at their best when Slater writes about issues with his often drunk dad whom he later helps financially and connects to emotionally when the patriarch is dying of throat cancer.
It's clear that part of Slater's love for surfing, that started as pre-teen, was a way to escape home conflicts and other problems. It's an escape route that continues to serve Slater as an adult who's rejected long-term emotional commitments.
There's the revelation that surfing's poster boy for clean-cut living is an unwed father, something the mainstream surfing media never reported. He's open about his relationship with the mother and having no intention of marrying her. Slater also writes that he intended to be part of his daughter's life, but the story never reveals that, other than in a smattering of occasions in which he sees her. Does the multi-millionaire Slater support the girl financially; how often does he visit her; does he have joint custody or did he give that up?
There are more anecdotes with emotional impact about Slater's relationship with "Baywatch" star Pamela Anderson than the one with his daughter's mother. He spent more time with Anderson and her two children than his own.
Slater says he wasn't comfortable having Anderson and her clan visit him and his daughter because the child would feel uncomfortable. But it's really Slater who is uncomfortable and can't be with Pam.
And when Slater feels uncomfortable, what does he do? Go surfing to block out all those wearisome on-shore problems.
Slater is embarrassed about his acting stint on "Baywatch" and tried repeatedly to get out of his contract. He writes a lot about feeling disgusted with himself for selling out the sport of surfing and the teasing he received from fellow surfers.
These are more words than he spends explaining why so many of his relationships with women never work out, other than a passing "it's my busy schedule" explanation. By post-30, most surfers at least consider the possibility that riding a wave isn't worth much compared to making an emotional connection with another human being.
The strength in "Pipe Dreams" is Slater's insight into the dozens of tournaments he's competed, surf spots he's ridden, competitors he's fought against. Slater clarifies how he won all competitions, strategy and tactics, and the grueling world-tour schedule.
Slater "reveals" that as a young surfer he feared big waves -- who doesn't; was shy around girls -- who wasn't; was "premature" during his first sexual experience -- who wasn't at age 15.
Slater "really" dislikes notoriety and being noticed. Wake up and smell the kelp, Kelly. If you can't stand the heat, get out of the water.
I've interviewed Slater a couple times. He's soft-spoken, humble, polite and punctual, but he needs a few more years out of competition to reflect on what he's accomplished and what he sacrificed for it.
Is Slater happy now? He says he bought some land in Hawaii, plans to grow avocados, wants a family "someday," and predicts that more of his time will be taken up with golf, and that he may even join the senior tour.
"I don't see myself competing against Tiger Woods, but maybe," he writes.
Sounds like more pipe dreams, deja vu all over again.
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