|
By The Glass By Roberto Viernes |
New finds
hit the palate
with energy, flavorI always find myself energized when I am able to taste wines that are the happy result of newly explored varietals or regions, freshly introduced to our fair islands. Just recently I had the chance to try some things that really hit my palate with energy and flavor -- wines I know everyone can appreciate.
First, something new from a place you've heard of, Napa Valley. How many cabernet francs have you tried from Napa? Even I can count them all on one hand.
The wine that really made me stop and take notice was a 2000 Stonefly Napa Valley Cabernet Franc ($30). The color was a beautiful plum red that reminded me of a dress I once saw Princess Diana wear -- gorgeous. A wave of violets, pomegranate, sweet plums and sandalwood spice is captured in its intoxicating aromas. It was smooth on the palate, like velvet, packed with plump black fruits with an elegant balance of acidity and structure that truly reminded me of someone regal.
With all its polish and class, this wine comes from a vineyard at the bottom of Mount St. George that is only 7 years old and a label that has celebrated only its fourth release.
I would serve this with a roasted-herb marinated pork loin or even bacon-wrapped quail. It is apparent that owner Rob Hampton and winemaker Dan Baron have a passion for cabernet franc, which by the way is one of the parents of cabernet sauvignon. They also have a passion -- make that an obsession -- for fly-fishing, hence Stonefly Vineyards, a name you want to remember.
Another exceptional wine from a very young establishment is the 1998 "Shardana" ($22) from the Santadi Winery, in Cagliari, Sardinia. Shardana -- the name the Phoenicians gave to the native Sardinians -- is made from 85 percent carignano (a k a carignane and carinena) and 15 percent shiraz (a k a syrah).
Some of the grapes come from vines more than 100 years old -- pretty old vines for a winery that is only 6 years old. The vines grow in a sandy soil that helps to deter the dreaded root louse, which ends the life of so many vines.
This terrific find just blasts out of the glass with intense black cherry, vanilla-laced cedar and freshly cured leather aromas. The mouth feel is full and penetrating, with a good dollop of tannin and good acidity, perfect for your favorite lamb dish (except curry) or a fresh blue-veined cheese.
The Santadi Winery is a venture of American importers Neil and Maria Empson, with winemaker Piero Cella, along with a little advice from Giacamo Tachis. It is another property headed for wine stardom.
There you have it. There are no miracles here, just wonderful excitement and great expectations.
Roberto Viernes is wine educator for Southern Wine and Spirits.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals. Write to features@starbulletin.com
