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By The Glass By Kevin Toyama |
Spanish wines
offer valueBack in the 1860s, a tiny insect known as phylloxera almost annihilated the world -- well at least the wine world. This aphid is famous for its devastating exploits around the globe. Only by the grafting over of French vines to American rootstock did the modern wine growers manage to survive.
However, in the South Eastern corner of Spain, the Appellation of Jumilla has withstood the tide of phylloxera. Higher elevation and sandy soils thwarted the advance of the pesky insect.
Bodegas Olivares has vineyards planted back in 1872. The winery's Altos de la Hoya 2001 is made from ungrafted old vine Mourvedre (92 percent) and Grenache (8 percent) that is incredible. Deep rich flavors of cassis, plums and blackberries intertwined with a French garrigue like quality, graphite, dried herb and dusty spice quality. The best of this is the amazing price of $8.99 for a piece of history. It's the deal of the 19th century here in the 21st.
The appellation of Costers del Segre in the North-Eastern corner of Spain is another region of outstanding value.
Castell dei Remei's produces a stunning blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon called Gotim Bru 2000. It is full-bodied, sweet, and rich, with great texture. Fabulous aromas of cedar, black currants, plum, licorice and smoke are great and the inky deep ruby/purple color tells you this wine will age well for a decade. The Wine Advocate's Robert Parker says that those seeking "restrained, politically correct, wimpy wine should look elsewhere" -- and gave it 92 points. All this and more for $9.69.
Kevin Toyama is manager of the Beretania R. Field Food & Wine Co. This column is a weekly lesson in wine pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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