This monster of a mushroom has grown very popular over the years for its great earthy flavor and meaty texture. The name portobello leads many to believe it's an Italian mushroom, but in Italy they call this mushroom capellone -- "big hat."

The basics: The portobello, also known as portabella, is an overgrown crimini mushroom (a close relative of the white button mushroom). Once the crimini grows to about 4 to 6 inches, it is deemed a portobello.

Before the early '80s, portobellos were routinely discarded, until a savvy marketer coined a fancy European-sounding name for the mushroom and it started selling like gangbusters.

The portobello has a large, flat, brown cap and exposed gills. The mushroom is very chewy and dense because the mushroom is quite mature, with a reduced amount of moisture present. Vegetarians especially love its meat-like texture.

Selecting: Look for plump and firm mushrooms with smooth caps. Watch out for shriveled or limp mushrooms or caps that have bruises or blemishes.

Storage: Portobellos should be stored in the refrigerator and will last for five days or so. Make sure to keep them moisture-free. Cooked portobellos can be frozen for a month or so.

Use: Portobellos, like all fresh mushrooms, should not be rinsed or soaked in water. Mushrooms are like sponges and will soak up a lot of liquid, which makes them mushy. Remove any dirt by brushing lightly or carefully wiping the caps with a damp cloth. Cut off the woody part of the stem and reserve for soups.

Grilling is a favorite preparation. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and lay mushroom directly on the grill. Portobellos can also be oven-roasted and sautéed with butter and garlic, then used as a tasty side dish or tossed in salads. Because of their large caps, stuffing is also a popular preparation, or simply grill and serve them as an alternative to burgers.

Where to buy: Portobellos are available year-round at most supermarkets. Costco is also a good source, where a 20-ounce container costs $5.99. Prices in the markets run $9 to $10 a pound.

Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com

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