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Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi Hawaii’s Back yard

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi


See the hills of
Kauai from an ATV


Ever since Honda introduced the all-terrain vehicle (ATV) in 1970, it has been adventurers' ultimate toy. Want to climb a steep hill? Go for it! How about hitting some radical bumps? Easy! Potholes a problem? Not a bit!

ATVs are powerful, plucky and dependable -- just the kind of companion you'd like to have in the wilderness.

The Backcountry ATV Adventure leads you into the heart of Kauai's lush interior on the Honda Rencon 650 cc and Polaris Sportsman 500 cc, the most popular ATVs currently on the market. They're four-wheel drive and fully automatic. They have independent rear suspension. And they're gutsy. Depending on the terrain and your driving ability, you can zip along rugged back roads at up to 30 mph -- enough to get your adrenaline pumping for sure.

"The ATVs are very easy to operate," says Kelley Carswell-Haneberg, vice president of Kauai Backcountry Adventures, which offers this three-and-a-half-hour tour. "You cover the same type of terrain as you do hiking or horseback riding, but you go farther because you can cover more ground in the same amount of time. It's fun, it's thrilling and you feel a sense of power being in control of this amazing machine."

You'll traverse 25 miles of breathtaking acreage that have never before been open to the public.

"You won't experience any big changes in altitude, but in scenery, yes!" notes Carswell-Haneberg.

The trip first goes through the old cane fields of Lihue Plantation (which shut down its sugar operations in 2000), then passes Kilohana Crater, a volcanic tuff cone crater that's six miles wide and 250 feet deep.

"Next," says Carswell-Haneberg, "we cross wide-open pastures that are surrounded by panoramic views of the Wailua Valley and Mount Kahili basins. Then we go through what feels like an Australian eucalyptus forest. We wind up before lunch on trails lined with towering albizzia trees; you'll feel like you're in Africa. The tour offers spectacular variation in terrain and views."

Here at the base of 5,080-foot Mount Waialeale ("overflowing water"), the highest mountain on Kauai, rain falls up to 350 days of the year, making it one of the wettest spots on Earth. About 475 inches of rain are recorded annually, nourishing the thick vegetation that cloaks this region in a thousand shades of green. Keen-eyed members of the group can spot native plants such as the ohia lehua, maile, koa and uluhe (false staghorn fern), along with ring-neck pheasants and wild boars.


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BACKCOUNTRY ATV ADVENTURE
Backcountry ATV Adventures leads you to the lush interior of Kauai to discover Halii Falls.
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Centuries ago, the Hawaiians made the arduous trek up Waialeale each year to bring gifts of food, song and dance to Kane, the god of creation, sunlight, forests and fresh water. The Backcountry ATV Adventure inspires this same feeling of joy, wonder and reverence.

On two occasions, recalls Carswell-Haneberg, participants were so moved by the beauty of the area, they pulled their ATVs to the side of the road and started crying.

"For many of our customers who come from big cities, it's the first time they've been so close to nature," she says. "To see these magnificent mountains, plants and wildlife, and to breathe the clean, fresh air is to them an awakening, a life-changing experience."

At a scenic point overlooking pretty Halii Falls, you'll park your ATVs, then embark on a short hike to the falls for swimming, sunbathing and a picnic lunch. During this relaxing break, your guides will regale you with captivating stories of old Hawaii, including that of the lehua, the flaming red blossom of the ohia tree. Legend says this is the favorite flower of Pele, the tempestuous volcano goddess, and picking it will bring rain.

You also will hear about a fearsome mo'o (lizard) that supposedly lives in Kauai's rivers, streams and ponds.

"Before the Hawaiians went swimming, they would throw a leaf into the water," says Carswell-Haneberg. "If the leaf sank, the mo'o was lurking below and they knew they shouldn't swim there. If the leaf didn't sink, that was a sign that the mo'o wasn't there and it was safe for them to go into the water."

Whether or not you believe this tale, you'll feel more confident about going for a dip after the guides toss a few leaves into the pool at the base of Halii Falls and you see them float.

All too soon, it's time to hop on your ATV for the journey home.

"Many people start the tour feeling uncertain about whether they can handle the ATVs," says Carswell-Haneberg. "Their confidence builds as time passes and by the end of the trip, they're pros! We've even had a 72-year-old grandmother do this tour, and she loved it!"

Carswell-Haneberg herself revels in the invigorating feeling of riding an ATV.

"You're right there in nature, with nothing to block your senses. You not only see the forest, you smell it. The wind whips through your hair. You can reach out and touch branches and bushes. Being on an ATV makes you feel so free and alive!"



Backcountry ATV Adventure

Place: Meet at 3-4251 Kuhio Highway in Hanamaulu

Phone: 245-2506 or toll free (888) 270-0555 from the other islands

Time: Departs 8 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. daily except Sunday. Check in 30 minutes prior to departure. This tour is not recommended for pregnant women or those who have back problems.

Cost: $135 per person, including lunch. Participants must be at least 16 years old to operate an ATV. Valid identification required for proof of age.

Tour size: Maximum of eight guests accompanied by two guides

Attire: Wear long pants and a swimsuit, and bring a towel and sunscreen. A helmet, safety glasses and Lycra booties lined with thick felt on the bottom to prevent slippage are provided. Pants, jerseys and gloves can be rented for $10.

Notes: Children as young as 5 and others who do not wish to operate an ATV can ride in a Ranger, a four-wheel-drive vehicle similar to a golf cart that seats two passengers and is driven by a guide. Those aged 16 and younger or 65 and older can ride in the Ranger for $108. Otherwise, the price is $135.

E-mail: adventure@kauaibackcountry.com

Web site: www.kauaibackcountry.com






See the Columnists section for some past articles.

Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer
and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.

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