Anchovies

The tiny anchovy is one of the most widely used fish of the sea, and one of the least appreciated. It is used as a topping for pizza, in antipastos and Caesar salads. It is the critical ingredient in Worcestershire sauce, Asian fish sauces and the French classic, remoulade.

On it's own though, this is a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient.

The basics: True anchovies are native to the Mediterranean and are used extensively in this area. A number of small, silvery fish are referred to as anchovies all around the world. They are sometimes mistaken for sardines, and are very similar to both sardines and herring.

Anchovies run in large schools and are caught when they are about 5 inches long. Most are then filleted, salt-cured and packaged in oil. Fresh anchovies are available only in certain areas on a limited basis because they are very perishable.

The salty, fishy taste of anchovies is quite overwhelming, but can add a flavorful dimension to dishes when used in small quantities.

Selecting: Anchovies are sold either bottled or canned in approximately 2-ounce sizes. They can be purchased whole or filleted. Anchovy paste, with added vinegar and spices, is also a popular form because of its ease of use and handy storage.

Storing: Unopened bottled or canned anchovies should be good for several months on the shelf. Once opened, however, it needs to be refrigerated and should last several weeks.

Use: A little goes a long way. Because they are so salty, a tablespoon or less is enough to flavor a recipe (two or three fillets, depending on size). Dips, dressings and sauces are an ideal way to use anchovies if the whole fillet isn't appealing. Lemon and capers marry well with anchovies in sauces for pasta, meats and poultry. Classic Mediterranean ingredients such as tomatoes, herbs, olives and garlic are also a good match.

Where to buy: Most markets stock anchovies near other canned seafood. Prices run about $1.79 for 2 ounces.

Eleanor Nakama-Mitsunaga is
a free-lance food writer. Contact her
online through features@starbulletin.com

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