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By The Glass

By Kevin Toyama


Bargain price for
rich-tasting Spanish wine


On the coattails of such great Spanish values as Castano's Solanera and Hecula comes another fabulous bargain, the Castell del Remei "Gotim Bru" 2000 ($9.69).

This outstanding wine is from the little known Denominaciones de Origen of Costers del Segre in the Catalonian Province of Lleida, where pasta, not rice, is a staple. One of the region's most famous dishes, Fideus a l'estil de Lleida -- noodles Lleida-style -- owes its roots to Arabs who brought pasta to Spain prior to the 14th century.

This outstanding value is a blend of 55 percent tempranillo, 20 percent merlot, 25 percent cabernet sauvignon and is awesome! Rich and full-bodied with a deep ruby-purple color, this wine is rich with intoxicating aromas of sweet smoky cedar, cassis, sage, licorice and liquid minerals and has a very long finish.

This is a wine to cellar for a few years. Or serve it now to complement full-flavored cuisine --an herb-crusted roast leg of lamb or peppercorn steak with a Madeira reduction.

Better yet, slip it into a blind tasting with your fellow winos and see what they think. Given a 92-point rating from wine guru Robert Parker, it's hard to beat.

These days, it's a challenge to find a great red burgundy at a good price. But according to Clive Coates, the burgundy aficionado, there are a few rising-star producers.

One who shines brightly studied with his father, Gerrard, at Domaine de la Pousse d'Or. In his 2000 vintage, he tasted more than 2,800 wines and elected to keep only 60 for his label.

His views on farming are much like those of the great domains of Burgundy ... utilizing 35-year-old-plus vines only, stringent cluster selection and biodynamic farming principles whenever possible.

His 2000 Santenay ($22.69) is focused, with rich ripe flavors of violets and tart red cherries and great texture, clearly a step above most others.

His Chambolle Musigny 2000 ($31.99) is a sensual blend of two old-vine parcels, delicate yet very rich and perfumed, as it should be.

These are but a few of the wines the young and incredibly talented Nicholas Potel has to offer. Yes, it's French (for those of you still boycotting), but it's very, very good!


Kevin Toyama is manager of the Beretania R. Field Food and Wine Co.




This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
Write to features@starbulletin.com

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