By Request Betty Shimabukuro

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Haupia long johns a tasty
challenge for home cooks

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Betty Johnson has the ambitious goal of making her own long johns at home, with haupia filling.

This is not a project for the faint of heart, as it involves yeast, frying, filling and glaze. But if you are an experienced baker, it's a pretty straight-forward process.

For the formula, I turned to Henry K.H. Shun, a veteran commercial baker and retired culinary instructor from Leeward Community College. He recently published the second edition of his "Seasons of Baking" cookbook, a homespun collection of recipes collected over 50 years in the business.

"Seasons of Baking" is unique in that it presents each recipe scaled for both professionals and home cooks. That means large quantities and small, with ingredients listed by weight as well as "cups and spoons," as Shun puts it.

STAR-BULLETIN Haupia cream fills a classic long john.

This recipe is not in either of his cookbooks, but Shun tried it out twice using typical home-kitchen equipment. If some of the proportions seem odd (3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon, for example) that's because they started out as weight measurements.

Purchase either volume of "Seasons of Baking" for $25 at Dave's Ice Cream at Sears Ala Moana, Bestsellers Books and Music or Edsung Food Service. Order by mail from Shun at 236 Lae St., Honolulu 96813, or e-mail seasonsofbaking@aol.com.

Don't expect the most polished of cookbooks; Shun is not a professional writer. "Seasons of Baking" is all about sharing what he has learned in local bakeries through a long career.

Haupia Long Johns

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon bread flour
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons butter or shortening
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon dry yeast
1/2 cup milk
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Vegetable oil for frying
>> Filling:
2 cups coconut milk
1/4 cup sugar
4 tablespoons cornstarch
>> Glaze:
1/2 cup powdered sugar
2-1/2 teaspoons water
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Shredded coconut, optional

To make filling: Combine coconut milk and sugar in a stainless steel pot. Pour half the mixture into a bowl and stir in cornstarch. Bring remaining coconut milk to a boil over medium heat. Pour half of that mixture into cornstarch mixture and stir well, then return entire mixture to pot. Continue to cook, stirring, until thickened, then cook 30 seconds longer. Do not overcook or cornstarch will break down. Pour into a stainless container and cover with plastic wrap, letting plastic touch the surface so no skin forms. Refrigerate.

To make long johns: All ingredients should be at room temperature. Combine ingredients, except oil, in a standing mixer and mix at low speed 2 minutes. Increase to second speed for 3 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise 75 minutes. (Dough may be mixed by hand, but it will be stiff. Do not add additional liquid. Mix until smooth and slightly glossy.)

Roll out dough 1/3-inch thick on a liberally floured surface. Lift dough slightly to allow it to relax, or shrink. Cut into strips 4 inches by 1-1/4 inches. Place on lightly floured pan or cutting board, 2 inches apart. Proof 45 minutes.

Pour oil 3/4 inch deep into an 8-inch pot. Heat to 365 degrees. Fry doughnuts 2 at a time, turning once. Drain on wire rack.

To make glaze: Combine powdered sugar and water to make a paste. Add lemon juice gradually to make a thin glaze.

Dip warm long johns in glaze, and then into shredded coconut, if desired. Cool on rack or screen.

To fill: Whip a little milk into haupia filling if mixture has become too thick. Fill a plastic sandwich bag with filling; cut hole in a corner of bag (or use a pastry bag). Insert a chopstick lengthwise into long john, making holes on both ends. Squeeze filling into long john from both ends. Makes 10 (may have extra filling).

Nutritional information unavailable.

Note: A clean plastic applicator bottle with a 1-1/2 inch nozzle may also be used for filling. Widen nozzle with a 7/64 inch drill bit.

Send queries along with name and phone number to:
"By Request," Honolulu Star-Bulletin,
500 Ala Moana, No. 7-210, Honolulu 96813.
Or send e-mail to bshimabukuro@starbulletin.com

Asterisk (*) after nutritional analyses in the Body & Soul section indicates calculations by Joannie Dobbs of Exploring New Concepts, a nutritional consulting firm.