The Weekly Eater Nadine Kam

KEN IGE / KIGE@STARBULLETIN.COM The guacamole served by Dina Martinez is not as big as a sombrero as it appears, but it's still a mouthful. It's more like a small salad than a dip, with huge slices of avocado and tomato cubes.

Start celebrating Cinco
de Mayo early at La Bamba

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Cinco de Mayo's more than a week away, but I just know partyers are waiting to begin celebrating on Friday. Nothing like starting early to make the most of the weekend.

You know there's more to the holiday than tequila, margaritas, Salma Hayak and Gael García Bernal (yum), right? As long as you can take a few seconds to acknowledge Mexico's revelry in independence -- a very American sentiment -- you can get on with the revelry.

For a more staid appreciation of the Mexican table, you might check out La Bamba. They offer no liquor service, but feel free to bring your own beer or wine.

LA BAMBA boasts "authentic Mexican food by authentic Mexican cooks," and it was promising to hear Dina Martinez, daughter of owner David Martinez, confirming our order for "wacamolé" -- not the "gwaka-molee" of a gringo.

And what guacamole this is! Generous slices of avocado and tomato cubes piled about 4 to 5 inches high, alternating red and green like a Christmas tree also festooned with slivers of dark green cilantro.

There's not much ambience. here. Open the door and you're standing in the dining room with four white walls and a splash of Mexican art here and there.

The cooking is strictly home-style, covering the basics of chimichangas ($8.25) to steak or chicken fajitas ($13.95). In addition to the usual meat-and-bean burrito ($8.50), there are all-meat burritos filled with beef, chicken or tender lamb ($9.50). The refried beans and fluffy Mexican rice are served on the side with a small lettuce and tomato salad.

Tomato sauce on chunks of steak Jarocho ($13.95) was thin and mild. Those who prefer their food fiery, can add red pepper flakes at the table.

Most outstanding is the chicken with mole sauce. Moles come in several styles and colors ranging from chocolate brown to orange. What's served here is deep, rich mole negro made with Mexican chocolate and such aromatic spices as nutmeg and cloves, giving it a bit of mystery. The resulting paste looks like the Filipino blood pudding dinuguan, but the flavor is fruity and complex, hinting of baked spiced raisins although there are no raisins in it.

Most people hear only the word "chocolate" and rush to order, not taking the time to understand what they will be getting. Our server made sure to ask us if we'd had it before to squelch the possibility of disappointment.

David Martinez is humble about what emerges from his kitchen. We praised his heavy caramel flan, only to have him deadpan, "Yes, I got it at City Mill," followed by a wink and a smile.

LA BAMBA 847 Kapahulu Ave. / 737-1956 Food Service 1/2 Ambience Value 1/2 Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Sundays to Fridays Cost: Cost: About $25 to $30 for two

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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

	excellent;
	very good, exceeds expectations;
	average;
	below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com