By The Glass
RICHARD FIELD
3 Spanish red wine
gems are highly
recommendedMuch as Italian winemaking enjoyed a renaissance in the '90s, a similar reemphasis of quality is occurring in Spain.
Castano Hecula 2001 ($8.79), from the importer Eric Soloman, is made exclusively from 40-year-old monastrell (mourvedre) vines. This rustic yet amazing red possesses sweet fruitiness, elegance and superb purity. Aromas of graphite, blackfruit, cassis, leather, spice and smoke are followed by an earthy, rich, full-bodied, silky-textured wine that caresses the palate. Rated 91 points by the wine guru Robert Parker Jr., and six thumbs up by the R. Field Wine Co. staff.
The modern or New-World style Castano is the Solanera 2001 ($10.99), a blend of 65 percent ungrafted (pre-phylloxera) monastrell and 35 percent cabernet sauvignon. The opaque, deep purple color is supported by aromas of blackberries with graphite, minerals, smoke, dried herbs and white pepper. It is amazingly concentrated and full-bodied, with no sharp tannins. This extraordinary wine can be drunk immediately or cellared for up to eight years. Last year, it sold out very quickly. Rated 93 points by Parker and seven thumbs up by the RFWC staff.
Alvario Palacios is one of the gifted young winemakers of modern Spain. Under his watch, phenomenal wines such as the internationally acclaimed L'Ermita are produced. One of his current projects includes grapes from a variety of vineyards called Les Terrasses 2000 ($23.99). The blend is carignan, grenache and cabernet grapes from more than 90 vineyards spread throughout the arid 50-mile region of Priorat. The outstanding Les Terrasses has a medium-dark ruby appearance with a bouquet of black currant, kirsch, smoke, graphite, tarragon and vanilla. The 60- to 90-year-old vines impart a richness of texture and a long finish not found in most wines. And the price is amazing for a bottle that compares easily with $40-plus wines.
These three gems from Spain are worth searching out as two of them sold out in Los Angeles within five hours of their e-mail offerings. These are three of the wine world's great values, not to be missed.
Richard Field owns R. Field Wine Co.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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