By The Glass
LYLE FUJIOKA
Sauvignon blanc is
ideal for light mealsWith apologies to the Byrds, here is our interpretation of their classic:
For every palate ... turn, turn, turnChardonnay, the august, senior incumbent of white wines, is facing serious competition from cleaner, crisper grape varietals tailor-made for the lighter, health-conscious cuisine everyone is enjoying today. The wine that has really captured our hearts is sauvignon blanc.There is a wine ... turn, turn, turn
A time for chardonnay, now a time for sauvignon blanc
What has spurred this change? Feeding America's desire for ever richer, fruit-forward chardonnay, winemakers have created wines that can be paired with only the most opulent, cream- and butter-laden dishes. The lighter and more subtle dishes of our island cuisine are routinely overpowered by chardonnay.
The yin to chardonnay's yang, sauvignon blanc's gooseberry, grapefruit and grassy, mineral-laden freshness glistens and shimmers on your palate. These qualities make sauvignon blanc an ideal candidate for how we eat today. Fresh salads dressed with light vinaigrettes, grilled or roasted vegetables and grilled seafood dishes are ideal pairings for sauvignon blanc's charms. Goat cheese fan? There is no better match than sauvignon blanc.
So turn, turn, turn to these wines instead of your usual chardonnay. I swear it's not too late!
Kennedy Point Berakah Estate 2002 ($12.95): Elegant, light and polished Marlborough, New Zealand, sauvignon blanc with light lilikoi, lime and white peach flavors, crisp acidity and a citrus-accented finish. Recently recognized by Wine Spectator magazine as one of the best sauvignon blancs for $25 or less, Kennedy Point is sure to please.
Tentation Du Chateau Le Bourdillot Blanc Graves 2001 ($13.95): This blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon is the essence of springtime in a bottle, yielding heady aromas of white peach, orange blossom and mineral. Ripe peach punctuated by citrus accents, limestone flavors and harmonizing acidity complete this incredible white wine.
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2001 ($14.95): Perhaps the only unpleasant thing about Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc is the price creep that has followed its fame. Well, the guy who made that wine is on his own now and turning out great Marlborough-styled sauvignon blanc filled with gooseberry and tropical fruit flavors at a much nicer price! And dig the groovy screw cap -- no more corked wine.
Brander au Naturel Sauvignon Blanc 2001 ($23.95): This sleek Sancerre-styled sauvignon blanc is simply stunning. Fermented in 100 percent stainless steel, this wine shows laser-like fruit purity and focus backed by chalky minerality and well-integrated acidity. Notes of fresh-cut hay back grapefruit, sage and mint flavors and aromas. This is simply one of the finest sauvignon blancs around and we love it. Oh yeah, take it easy removing the wax cap -- you'll need your fingers to hold your glass.
Lyle Fujioka owns Fujioka's Wine Merchants.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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