By The Glass
RICHARD FIELD
Fine new wines
await in CaliforniaEach year more wine lovers scour the globe in hope of discovering the next hot, upcoming and exciting new treasure. They may hit upon Italian reds made from raboso veronese or oseletta, or Austrian wines made from alter rebstock, rotgipfler or jublinaumsrebe.
But let not your palate be troubled. Many discoveries are not so far-flung or so hard to pronounce. Some great discoveries can be made in our own back yard, made from varietals we can all understand.
I'm talking about California. You can find several new wineries and labels that have not yet reached the mainstream of wine consciousness. The "boutique" winery still exists and has been an exciting part of my recent discoveries.
Try this one out: Mario Andretti, patriarch of Formula One's first family, has teamed up with winemaker Robert Pepi to produce a line of Napa Valley wines, from sauvignon blanc to sangiovese, from chardonnay to cabernet sauvignon. The one that really stands out is the 1999 Andretti Napa Valley Merlot ($20 to $25). It has a beautiful nose of ripe plums, blackberries, currant and pomegranate, all laced with a nice touch of vanilla and sandalwood. The palate is as sleek as any Ferrari, with smooth tannin, lovely plush fruit and a nice dry finish. This wine is not like a monster truck, but more like a Porsche -- tons of flavor and super-stylish.
Another exciting discovery is Archipel, made at the Verite Winery, also in Napa Valley. This wine, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, is made by a transplanted Frenchman, Pierre Seillan. It is truly a mountain-grown effort: All of the grapes are from vineyards above the fog line in Napa. From high atop one of the vineyards you can see an "archipelago" of mountain tops, ergo the name Archipel.
The first release, 1999 Archipel ($35 to $40), stands above many wines in the same category with its huge aromas of cassis, mulberry, dried plums, cedar and cardamom. The palate is full-bodied, with super-concentrated black fruit flavors and nicely rounded with smoky vanillin. This wine has received raves from critics, if that means something to you.
Zin-fanatics should take note of Sausal Winery, a small winery in the heart of Alexander Valley that is making a trio of killer zinfandels. First rung on the ladder to zinvana is the 2000 Family Zinfandel ($15 to $18), which has excellent richness without going over the top. Next up is the 2000 Private Reserve Zinfandel ($20 to $25), definitely kicked up a notch, with even more hints of raspberry and blueberry pie filling. But the climax is reached with the 2000 Century Vines Zinfandel ($32 to $37), made with 125-year-old estate vines. Young, vibrant and power-packed, you will be lucky if you can even find it. Get it when you can.
So when you are looking abroad for something exciting, don't forget to check your own back yard. You'll be glad you did.
This column is a weekly lesson in wine
pairing written by a rotating panel of wine professionals.
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