The Weekly Eater
The Weekly Eater
These foods just may put
some spice in your love lifeAh, another Valentine's Day and thoughts turn to the glories of food as aphrodisiacs. Restaurateurs have gone downright medieval or New Agey, poring over witch's manuals for the potions and brews that will enchant the indifferent, awaken ardor, quicken the pulse and engulf a beloved's heart in the flames of passion. Ouch. Dangerous stuff that love thang.
It's not good to mess around on your own. Instead, leave the love potion test kitchen to professionals.
One of the most provocative menus comes from Indigo, where chef Glenn Chu has mapped out a Valentine's evening on the 14th. The dinner ritual will begin with sips of General Yang's Secret Chamber Potion, with its teaspoon of Chinese herbs -- including deer horn shavings, ginseng, angelica, seahorse and "infused with gecko" (I think he was kidding on the last bit) -- geared toward stimulating the appetite and who knows what else?
NADINE KAM / NKAM@STARBULLETIN.COM
Jian Nian Lin, top left, and Yim Bo Him measure out herbs, bark and dried roots at Chee Wo Tong in Chinatown.
Chu says he's consulted a master Chinatown herbalist who "specializes in aphrodisiacs and watches."
Of course! Love takes time, as the sage Mariah Carey and John Denver have sung.
NADINE KAM / NKAM@STARBULLETIN.COM
Pieces of ginseng, above, are said to be a potent aphrodisiac. Note they are shaped like men. They sell for $12 an ounce at Chee Wo Tong.Chu first tested the formula about five years ago, when an opening manager at Neiman Marcus lamented that he and his wife were having difficulty conceiving a child.
"They were an older couple and said they had tried everything," Chu said. But they had yet to sample Indigo's secret potion, which they did that night. Three weeks later, they returned to announce they would be having a baby boy.
"Now I'm not saying it's because of this potion, but what a coincidence," Chu said.
His restaurant is quite the mood setter on its own, with furnishings conjuring steamy, sensual Indonesia.
Chu's menu continues with more preludes to romance, including a choice of Stellar Bay oysters on the half shell with champagne mignonette, soft tofu infused with ginger and golden saffron threads, or chili moi with a cumin, mustard seed and yogurt dip. All this is followed by equally sensual entree and dessert choices.
BUT BEFORE you eat to your heart's content, you might consider the other side of foods as aphrodisiac. To put it bluntly, that plump little oyster might add up to some unsightly folds in all the wrong places when later, ahem, you want to put those foods to the test. You may also feel more flabby than frisky after a helping of steak and foie gras.
Let's not forget that our ancestors hit on the idea of aphrodisiacs because they were likely weak from starvation. They knew nothing of vitamins and protein shakes so just about any mineral-, carbohydrate- or fat-rich food gave them a spurt of energy which I guess they confused with carnal drive. Today, as overstuffed as we are at any given moment, a piece of fruit is likely to work better at giving us a quick shot of energy while making us feel light on our toes.
NADINE KAM / NKAM@STARBULLETIN.COM
A seahorse is also a reputed aphrodisiac. This seahorse skeleton was found at Fook Sau Tong. Medicinal grade seahorse can cost up to $75.
Then there's modern marvel of Viagra, but where's the romance in that?
Food is much more fun to think about. Here's a short list of purported aphrodisiacs and where to find them:
Caviar: Sturgeon eggs are full of vitamins and phosphorous, and let's face it -- the person who can make a meal of the stuff will likely be able to keep you swathed in luxury away from the table as well. Get a taste of Osetra caviar over a timbale of scallops and risotto at Halekulani's fine-dining restaurant La Mer, where a Valentine dinner from Feb. 14 to 16 is being offered at $90 per person. Call 923-2311.
Chocolate: Complex chemicals -- including theobromine, related to caffeine -- make up this treat that seems to work better on women than men. Stop by the Honolulu Academy of Arts for an afternoon rendezvous over the Pavilion Café's pots de creme. Smooth, creamy, delicious.
Garlic: Well, this potent bulb packs a double whammy. The heat of raw garlic is said to stir sexual desires. At the same time, it's smell is enough to make vampires cringe. Just make sure you and your partner are both having some. Assaggio's -- take a pick of locations at Ala Moana Center, Hawaii Kai, Kailua and Mililani -- pasta dishes are full of minced garlic, and you can't be a garlic lover without knowing about Ninniku-ya in Kaimuki and Petite Garlic in Waikiki.
Honey: In addition to helping to heal wounds, ancient Egyptians believed honey was a cure for sterility and impotence. If a guy's willing to have tea and honey with you, you know he's in love. Or simply end a meal at Pyramids or The Olive Tree with honey-coated baklava.
Oysters: These ocean delicacies are said to be aphrodisiacs because they resemble reproductive organs. They also happen to be full of protein and zinc. Just about every Valentine menu I've seen is featuring oysters. Sergio's, at the Hilton Hawaiian Village, will offer oysters Rockefeller as part of its $110 ($150 with wine) Valentine's Day menu for two, while at Halekulani's open-air Orchids, there will be poached oysters and caviar butter, part of a $55 per person menu offered Feb. 14 to 16. Call 951-6900 for Sergio's, and 923-2311 for Orchids.
Whatever you decide to do, thankfully the morning after is Saturday, a day off to recover.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to nkam@starbulletin.com
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