Hawaii’s Back yard
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi
Sub reveals
underwater wondersOne hundred twenty-five feet below the surface of the waves, I'm witnessing a remarkable sight: A large school of blue-stripe snapper -- at a quick count, more than 30 of them -- glides past the porthole I'm peering through on Atlantis IX.
In the sub's spotlights, the fish look like a moving banner of bright yellow, streaked with thin bands of blue. They swim by us, turn around and come back for another look. Perhaps they're as curious about us as we are about them.
As the 48-passenger sub moves slowly forward, other amazing images appear: a vast garden of coral, strands of seaweed dancing gracefully with the currents, and many more intriguing creatures. We try to identify each one on the Hawaiian reef fish charts that are anchored near our seats.
One passenger swears she sees a squirrelfish. Another spots a moray eel. Still another admires a white-tip reef shark that isn't large, but awesome nonetheless. We're submerged in the Auau Channel, just three-quarters of a mile off West Maui, but we may as well be on another planet, so strange and wonderful are the views.
Atlantis Submarines' Maui adventure begins with a 10-minute cruise by shuttle boat from Lahaina Harbor to the dive site. Dubbed Twin Peaks, the site comprises two "patch reefs," measuring about 60 feet long and 30 feet wide. Atlantis IX spends 45 minutes underwater, exploring about a quarter-mile of the fascinating reef area.
ATLANTIS
The idea for underwater tours began with mini-submersibles developed to inspect oil rigs.
Rich Brunner has worked for Atlantis for 13 years, the past 10 as a captain. He was involved with the construction of three of the five submarines the company is operating in Hawaii.
Brunner estimates he's skippered the Maui excursion more than 5,000 times, yet he never tires of it.
"What I like most about my job is being on and under the ocean and having the opportunity of showing the reefs to people, which may be their only trip underwater," he says. "I was a student in the University of Hawaii-Hilo's marine science program, and I also enjoy seeing firsthand many of the things I learned about in the classroom. This helps me gain a better understanding of the ocean world and enhances my experience at work."
NO TOUR IS exactly the same because the crew can't predict what marine animals will be playing around Twin Peaks when the sub descends. Brunner especially appreciates the rare opportunities when humpback whales make an appearance.
"One morning we had just brought our first group of passengers of the day to the dive site when three whales came alongside the surfaced sub," Brunner recalls. "We had to stop what we were doing and just enjoy them. For 20 minutes they swam all around us, looking in the sub and swimming the length of the sub. We get about 15 to 20 humpback sightings from the sub each whale season (December through May)."
All the inhabitants of the sea, from the smallest fish to the giant humpback, are true marvels of nature, and when you think about it, Atlantis IX and her sister subs are miracles in themselves. Notes Brunner, "With the submarine we are able to violate the laws of nature a bit. What I mean by this is that we are able to bring people into the underwater realm safely, comfortably and for extended periods of time without any ill effects. Obviously, people would not be able to stay underwater without technology such as the submarine."
THAT VISITORS ARE able to embark on submarine tours at all is due to the vision and dedication of Dennis Hurd, president of Atlantis Submarines International Inc. A design engineer who once captained a 20-ton schooner from Nova Scotia to the Bahamas, Hurd conceived the idea of recreational submarines while he was employed at International Hydrodynamics (Hyco) in the 1970s.
At the time, Hyco was the world leader in the business of deep-sea manned submersibles; it developed vessels that could transport crews to depths of 6,600 feet to inspect North Sea oil rigs. Hurd often accompanied clients on these expeditions, and their enthusiastic response spurred him to launch submarine tours for the visitor market.
In 1983, Hurd and a group of investors drew up plans for Atlantis I, the world's first battery-powered, nonpolluting public-passenger submarine. Atlantis I was put into service two years later off the coast of the Cayman Islands in the British West Indies.
From there, the company rapidly expanded. There are now 11 Atlantis submarines operating in nine destinations around the world: Cayman Islands; Barbados; St. Thomas; Aruba; Guam; Cozumel; and Lahaina, Maui; Waikiki, Oahu; and Kona on the Big Island.
"When people think of Hawaii, they think of beaches, valleys and tropical forests, but there's a whole 'nother beautiful side to the islands underwater," notes Brunner. "Many of us enjoy swimming, surfing, snorkeling and other water sports, but relatively few of us have ventured deep into the ocean and seen the incredible array of marine life that thrives there.
"Down in the sea where Atlantis goes, it's peaceful, it's gorgeous, it's inspiring and the spectacular images stay with you forever."
Tours: At 9 and 10:30 a.m., noon and 2 p.m. daily. Meet 30 minutes ahead of time at Lahaina Harbor's Slip 18. Atlantis Submarines-Maui
Cost: $39.99 for ages 2 to 12, $79.99 for ages 13 and older. Kamaaina rates are $14.99 and $19.99, respectively. Ask about Atlantis Combos, which pair the submarine adventure with admission to other Maui activities and attractions, including Maui Tropical Plantation, Maui Ocean Center, Sugar Cane Train, Royal Lahaina Luau, a whale-watching cruise and helicopter ride.
Restrictions: Passengers must be capable of descending and ascending a near vertical ladder to enter and exit the submarine. Children must be at least 3 feet tall.
Other tours: Atlantis Submarines also offers underwater adventures in Kona on the Big Island and Waikiki on Oahu. Operating off Waikiki, Atlantis XIV, the world's largest passenger submarine, spans more than 100 feet and accommodates 64 passengers.
Call: 667-2224 on Maui or toll-free 800-548-6262
Web site: www.go-atlantis.com
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based free-lance writer
and Society of American Travel Writers award winner.
